Hi Bob,
You've got me nervous. I'm expecting the front spring mounts to pivot.
Maybe a
week's worth of P-B Blaster will free 'em up. I could probably get the rear
end up
high enough to roll the axle out, but I sure-as-shootin' wouldn't think of
working
under there with that setup. It's gonna' be fun.
Bud Krueger
Robert Allen wrote:
> Bud Krueger wrote:
>
> > Which is better, wheels on or wheels off? I'm of the impression that
>the
> > leaf spring assembly is to remain attached to the axle and is to come out
>with
> > it as Bemtley says. Is that correct even for Haynes' procedure? If so, why
> > does Haynes say to "...Unscrew the U-bolt nuts..."?
>
> It depends. If you can lift your car high enough to let tires roll around
> underneath, leave the wheels on. But you probably don't. It is handy to undo
> almost everything and let the axle rotate down on the front spring mounts.
>
> The only "iffy" part is that the front sping mounts don't pivot down like
>spring
> shackles and it can be holy hell getting the pivot bolts out of there if
>there has
> been any rust. (Wadda you wanna bet?) What I've found is the the inner metal
> sleeve of the rubber bushings rust to the pivot bolt and you end up having to
>cuss
> them out. I've used a mini-grinder.
>
> So, to make the story longer, first I would make sure that the front leaf
>spring
> pivot bolts can be removed. Once you've proven that, pivot the axle, with
>springs,
> down from the front.
>
> Be careful, though, the axle alone is something over 200 pounds. I know Lawrie
> says that two strong helpers can do wonders but 1) where the hell can you find
> them and afford the beverage fee and 2) we all know Lawire doesn't get any so
>he
> has all that pent up adrenalin; bench pressing axles may not be any big deal
>to
> him. I've slid a Midget axle out the side. I dropped the C/GT axle on my foot.
>
> One final thing. Make sure you don't put the jackstands behind the axle when
>you
> start this project. Been there, too.
>
> Another final thing. If your gonna take off the pinion nut, loosen it while
>the
> axle is on the car. You'll be chasing the fricking axle all over the garage
>floor
> if you do it later. I had to use three feet of black pipe as a cheater and
>still
> bent something expensive. (Maybe that was when the C/GT axle fell on my foot.)
> Perhaps Haynes has cheap wrenches and recommends loosening the U-bolt nuts
>while
> on the car for the same reason.
> --
> Bob Allen, Kansas City
> "Anything is easy if you ignore enough details."
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