ARP. John
MGSMGBGT@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 4/15/1999 8:44:12 AM, JustBrits@aol.com wrote:
>
> <<In a message dated 4/14/99 8:22:22 PM Central Daylight Time,
> Lawrie@britcars.com writes:
>
> << Actually, it's a very good idea to replace them all unless you know they
> have been replaced recently. They stretch not just from abuse but from use!
> Since we started making a habit of replacing all the studs during an engine
> overhaul or a valve job, we have never had the problem (so often mentioned
> here on the list) of coolant weeping out over the ID plate. (And we don't
> add bits of wire, silicone sealer, or any of that stuff the factory didn't
> originally believe necessary!)
> >>
>
> Ditto from the Mid West!!
>
> Ed
> >>
>
> I do not disagree, but have become fearful because of the lack of quality of
> the new studs I've been getting. I frequently have had one let go at about
> 40 ft/lbs on my way up. Generally the difficulty is poor steel used in the
> stud. I have friends who are blacksmiths, both artist and harrier, who tell
> me that this is a common problem. Removing a broken stud from the block is
> not fun, and I have rarely had a re-used stud let go. I have purchased studs
> from all of the usual suspects, with similar results. If you have a better
> source, let me know. I'm putting an engine togather now and would love to
> find a solution to this problem.
>
> Bob Shaw
> Lincoln, NE
|