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wheels, tires and pull

Subject: wheels, tires and pull
From: Larry Colen <>
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 10:08:06 -0700
I bought the set of Firestone SH30s in 195-60-14 yesterday. A friend
that raced an MGB in IT said that 205s fit, but would rub without 
a panhard rod.  Realizing that if I wanted absolute handling, I'd
put on race tires, I went with  the 195s for the street.  I am favorably
impressed by their dry handling.  Usually when I go from race tires to 
"pure" street tires I immediately notice how badly the street tires suck.
Te firestones do not suck
they only have 40 mile son them, so they dhousd get better once I wear off the
protective coating. 

The rostyle rims that I found in my shed looked like they had been 
sitting in a shed for four years. One had been painted something
that resembled beige.  In answer to the question  about masking tires when 
painting wheels,  I took an old tire,
used my table saw and cut the sidewall off at the
edge of the tread and used that to maks
off the tire. I think a 15" tire would work better ona 14" wheel, but bymoving
it around I got a reasonable job of 
masking done.  They look like they've been
painted with a rattle can, but the ace hardware chamois colored paint is a 
reasonable match for primrose yellow, at least underdim lights at night.

I'd like to find someone locallly that has one of those rostyle masksand do 
theim twotone
with brown and yellow rather than the stock
silver and black.

I seem to have fixed the odd pull.  When I tightened down the ubolts, 
it always pulled a bit to the right. While I had the wheels off,
I loosed the ubolts on one side and used the 2 pound medium adjustment 
tool (BFH) to move it slightly (noticing some wear marks onthe spring
near themounting plate of the axle.  It now tracks pretty close to straight.

The rear shoes have had a chance to bed in so I adjusted the brakes.
With the stainless steel flex lines, my brake pedal is nice and solid.
I'm running carbon kevlar shoes (relined by superior friction in San Jose
at Gish and Zanker) and carbon kevlar pads bought from  British Automatove in 
Novato.  I cannot make the brakes 'go away' even on my torture roads,which are 
empiracly proven to be harder on brakes than Sears Point.  Granted, I have 
modified my front valence to enhance airflow (cut most of it out except
under the radiator and the 8" in front of the tire), but this does seem to be
the budget solution for heat resistant brakes.  Note that I have had
problems with Hawk brakes brutally wearing out rotors on my Rx7, and that
was with the milder of their carbon metallic pads.

 Rome did not create a great empire by having meetings; they did it by        
killing all those who opposed them.                       

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