....nice trick to closing it without dropping it......
lay your entire forearm on the lid and grasp the 'hook' and
use your forearm to push down on the hatch while holding onto the
hook. It'll stop you from dropping the hatch, while giving you
easy leverage to push it down past the center-over point.
OBie - '73 BGT - Daily Driver
Rat -'80 Spitfire - fledgling recently left the nest
Punkin' - '78 Spitfire - in Superb Shape!
Lil' Greenee - '73 RWA Midget - finally home
email: email@example.com http://www.teglerizer.com
From: Dodd, Kelvin <firstname.lastname@example.org>
To: Bob Hill <email@example.com>
Cc: firstname.lastname@example.org <email@example.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 1:25 PM
Subject: RE: Got my GT home
> 1) On the rear hatch. I know on a regular B you have to
> release the prop
> but on a GT, it there something you have to release to get it down or
> what. Got mine up last night and having trouble getting it
> to close and
> am afraid of breaking something - porbably just needs some
> grease but not
The rear hatch springs have an over center position (best I can
describe it). Once over that the hatch drops like a stone. Pull down on
the hatch lid and you will feel the kerchunk. You will not break anything.
Just remember there is no support once the springs release.
> 2) Upholstery style. I beleive the seats on this car have
> been recovered
> before but not absolutely sure. Did the GT in 74 have
> basically the same
> style seats as the roadster? These have a cloth seat which I do not
> believe were ever available in the MG's. Looking at my
> Original MGB book,
> I still can't seem to draw a definite conclusion.
Cloth faced seats were available in the GT only. The material is
nylon with a rib pattern (kinda like cordroy). Colors Dark Blue, Black, or
Tan. My 73 has Dark Blue cloth. The seats are the same design as the
> 3) What is the best way to drain the gas tank? I assume it
> will have to
> be removed (which doesn;t seem to difficult) but if it can be
> drained in
> the car that would be easier. Of course, I probably shoudl
> just remove it
> and have it flushed and treated I guess
I have had no problems using the fuel pump to pump the tank out. It
seems the easiest way to me. I just disconnect the hose at the carb, then
put an extension on to it and away you go.
> 4) How hard is it to comvert the A/C system to the new Freon
> I would like to convert the system over when I have it redone.
> I plan on making the GT my regular driver and letting the
> wife have the 79
> Roadster so I want to do this car right. THe car has 62K
> miles on it and
> runs good. I f this were your car, what would you all do to it
What I do with daily drivers.
Replace all hydraulics including hoses. Rear wheel cylinders for
the GT are expensive.
New headlight switch, new fuse Box. Clean headlight connectors
behind the grille. Check grounds on tail lamps.
Repack or replace Front Wheel bearings. Drain and refill all
fluids, including rear axle.
Remove, clean check fuel pump.
Desmog. Convert to single 12 volt battery.
Clean and check fuel tank
Rust proof doglegs and front fender lowers
Clean the cowl vent drip tube
Replace the seals on the brake master frame
That's pretty much all of the bits I can remember. The headlight switch and
fuse box are prone to corrosion and are not readily cleanable. Replacing
them and cleaning the grille area contacts gets rid of 90% of the possible
Oh, pull the steering wheel cowl and clean the contacts on the
high-low beam switch. That's another area that can get dirty and melt down.
> 79 MGB
> 77 MG Midget
> 74 MGB GT
> 97 Jaguar XJ-R