Paul,
What I should have said in the message is that the temp gauge is high all the
time, but the fuel gauge is intermittent, but when working reads correctly (bad
joint somewhere I'm sure). The Temp gauge reading is unaffected by the fuel
gauge functioning or not.
Thanks,
Trefor
Paul Hunt wrote:
> Would it be too obvious to say "Then fix the fuel gauge"? Both gauges run
> off the stabiliser so it is quite feasible that if the fuel gauge is
> disconnected the temp gauge will read high, because the stabiliser is a
> thermo/mechanical device that relies on a certain current draw (i.e. fuel
> gauge plus temp gauge) to maintain a given average output voltage.
>
> You might like to have a look at the web site below and select 'Spanners',
> 'Electrics' and 'Gauges', which as well as covering faulting techniques also
> covers adjusting them (well, the fuel gauge at any rate, dunno about the
> electric temp gauge) for max and min.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Trefor Delve <tdelve@mathworks.com>
> To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 07, 2000 2:55 PM
> Subject: Ok - Who's the King of temp gauge trivia?
>
> > All,
> >
> > The temp gauge on my 74 1/2 roadster seems to be always too high but the
> > car isn't overheating. It's possible that it's the voltage regulator,
> > but the when fuel gauge is working, it seems to be OK.
> >
> > As I wanted to avoid the in car gymnastics required to change the
> > voltage regulator, I wondered if anybody knew a few of the
> > impedence/temperature points for the sender unit.
> >
> > If any of you do know, then you may consider yourself the King (or
> > Queen) of Temperature Gauge trivia!
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Trefor
> >
> >
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