plug weld
James Nazarian
'71 B roadster
'71 BGT rust free and burnt orange
'63 Buick 215
On Mon, 27 Mar 2000, Dan Dwelley wrote:
> Craig,
>
> I think I would make use of that 1" lip. I would drill 1/8" holes in the
> center of the lip every 2 to 3 inches then Clamp the floor panel in place
> and weld through the holes to the inner sill. This will simulate a spot type
> weld. There is a name for this procedure...yet I can't for the life of me
> remember it at this moment. None The less, this will make for a solid floor.
> Remember, you're not drilling hole into the inner sill...only through the
> lip of the new floor pan.
>
> Good Luck and have fun,
>
> Dan Dwelley
> 77 Midget
> Alexandria, Va.
>
>
> On Sun, 26 Mar 2000 20:44:05 -0500, Craig D. Niederst wrote:
>
> > The passenger side floor pan on my '71 B needs replacing (thought it
> could
> > be patched, but there would be more patch there than floor pan). The pan
> has
> > rusted from the inside down due to water that had gotten into the car. It
> > looks like water was definitely sitting along the inner sill wall, and
> thus
> > has rusted through in some places. In trying to remove the pan, it
> appears
> > the DPO attempted to repair the floor previously. The DPO's repair was to
> > rivet a new lip onto the bottom of the sill area under the car for a 1
> foot
> > or so length of the pan, and then riveted it to the badly rusted floor
> (this
> > repair was nicely hidden by undercoating from underneath, BTW). The
> > crossmembers under the floor pan are solid, as are the jacking point and
> lip
> > along the tranny tunnel. The new floor pan I bought is a Steelcraft pan,
> and
> > it has the 1" or so vertical lip around its perimeter. Since the lip
> along
> > the sill is in poor shape, would a seam weld attaching this lip to the
> inner
> > sill wall be enough for a sound floor on the sill side? Also, does the
> floor
> > pan provide structural strength to the spring hanger? The floor pan
> around
> > the spring hanger on the passenger side again rusted from the inside down
> > (about 1" of the front of the bracket is now visible from inside the
> car),
> > but the bracket is undamaged and is solidly in place. Does this need
> > repaired additionally for structural concerns, or is this just cosmetic?
> > BTW, any ideas on how much a welding repair like this should cost? I am
> > removing the floor pan my self (or at least trying to), and will be
> > providing the new floor pan. TIA
> >
> > Craig
> > '71 B
> >
>
>
> Dan Dwelley
> 77 Midget
> Alexandria, Va.
>
>
>
>
>
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