Thanks for the info Mark. You've talked me into doing it. Motorhead here in
Northern Virginia wants $225 to do them. His prices are outragious! I'm
trying to get the car to pass Maryland inspection and had to replace the
steering rack. I bought the rack and decided to have a shop do it just to
save me the frustration of trying to makeshift something to aline the
steering shafts and re-mounting the rack just to get the right amount of
shims in there. He still wants to charge me $260 when other shops up here
charge $130 if you have the part. I was missing those #$## clips on the rear
wheel cyclinders and asked him how much he wanted just to put the two clips
on...$35! The only reason I went to him is because they were nice enough to
do a free tech session for our local MG club and I wasn't aware of any good
shops in the area. They also seem to have one of the best reputations for
quality repairs. Sorry for venting!
Does anyone else find these prices a bit high? But thanks for the details
for replacing the pads. That's what I love about this list...you learn alot
and keep from going to the poor house. And it's fun!
Thanks
Scott
76 B
---------- Original Text ----------
From: <IfixMGs@aol.com>, on 5/10/2000 8:53 AM:
Has anyone heard of a sub frame pad for the front suspension of a 76 B? My
local shop says I need to replace them because the front end is starting to
move? I've never heard of this before. They also ran a compression test on
the old engine....150, 80, 110, 130. Will I need a rebuild real soon? What
would cause No. 2 to be at 80? Bearing, ring? It doesn't blow smoke or
consume and oil. Seems to run okay too. Hopefully it can hold off until
later this year. I'll double check it when I get it home.
SCOTT:
I just finished a 2 week refurb of a 77 which hit a pothole so large
that the car came to a dead halt inside the hole from 35 mph. The owner
continued to drive it without an inspection for nearly a year!
All 4 of the subframe bolts were loosend, and the pads between the
crossmember and the body simply vanished thru the pulverization process.....
The crossmember pivoted like the front end of a radioflyer wagon, and
whenever the brakes were applied with the wheels turned, the car went out of
control, but he pressed on, including several 500 mile round trips to the
mountains! He had it checked out once at a garage, but they jacked the car
from the crossmember, forcing it tight against the frame rails, and
pronounced everything hunky dory, saying that little cars never handle
well(????) This car needed new springs, kingpins, shocks, bushings and A
arms to the tune of $600, but replacing the pads shouldn't run more than $140
(2 hrs labor and parts) by someone not well versed in MGBs, and less if the
guy really knows his stuff (and all goes well.....) I charge $100 plus pads,
as a flat rate.
Over the years, I've found many Bs with loose/missing and worn pads.
The job is actually quite easy, and can be done with a floor jack,
some jackstands and a 1/2" drive ratchet, 3/4 amd 5/8 sockets. short
extension and breaker bar, and a 3/8 drive 9/16 socket and 9/16 wrench. With
the car on jackstands (tires about 3" off ground, center the floor jack on
the crossmember. Remove the 4 steering rack bolts, and the 5/8" bolts that
hold the steering knuckles to the king pin swivels. Remove the 4 locknuts
from the top of the frame rails and lower the front crossmember just enough
to r&r the pads. I always stuff a piece of foam in the hole accessing the
two forwardmost bolts to keep them from falling inside the crossmember and
wasting time retreiving them. Replace all 8 pads (I use trimmed down spring
pads when out of stock.....) and torque the daylights out of the nuts (really
torque them to the book-spec...) and refit the steering rack. Last one I did
took 45 minutes start to finish using an impact gun and air ratchet.
Your compression numbers sound like valves are in need of a regrind.....
Mark Childers Union Jack Spares VA Beach VA
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