I use anti- sieze on every plug that I install. Maybe overkill but I have not
had any problems removing plugs on any engine that I have done this to. Even
those that sat for years and those that have "cooked".
I use Copper anti-sieze on aluminum heads and aluminum anti-sieze on cast iron
heads.
Steve Darby
Sports Cars Int'l
Dave Wood wrote:
> I changed the plugs in my daughters Mazda last night before I took it though
> the pollution test this morning where it passed I'm happy to say. My
> question is about the difficulty I had in removing two of the plugs. I've
> never had a plug so reluctant to be taken out. Two of them fought me all
> the way out. The engine had been run briefly about 3 hours previously so it
> was pretty cold by the time I removed the plugs. The most difficult one had
> aluminum in the bottom two or three threads. Does the aluminum melt into
> the plugs or what? The reason I am so concerned is that I need to change
> the plugs in my wife's Olds V6 which is going to be a misery anyway as I
> have to disconnect the dog bones and rotate the engine toward the front in
> order to remove the plugs on the firewall side. Since it also has aluminum
> heads and I know that the plugs have never been changed, am I looking at the
> same kind of difficulty to remove those? I understand that it is a good
> policy to put anti-seize compound on any bolts that go into aluminum and I
> assume this is correct for plugs as well? The only MG content is that there
> are aluminum heads available as replacement heads which I assume could cause
> the same kind of problem.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Dave 72 B
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