IMHO: The Number One problem = RUST! Any number of other shortcomings can
be overlooked. But structural rust repair will sink you quicker than any
other mechanical or cosmetic problems (unless you're handy with a welder
and body filler). Also be on the lookout for DPO modifications,
especially to the electrical system. Undocumented wiring can be a real
time-eater to trace and repair, and makes future improvements or a return
to originality more difficult.
Your best financial bet would be to pay good money for a previously
restored car (assuming it checks out). It is very difficult to make your
money back on a major restoration, and this way the seller eats the
difference.
On the other hand, if you want the challenge and pride of doing it
yourself, and having the car set up exactly the way you want it, you can
try to find an unrestored, rust-free (more-or-less) car, even if
mechanically tired or non-operating. But Mk Is in this condition are
getting rather hard to come by, as far as I have noticed. The days are
gone when you could pick one up for under $300 (as two of my friends did
15-20 years ago). Twelve years ago I picked up a running, shiny but
rusting-beneath-the-paint '66 with rod knock for $700. I suspect you
would pay at least twice that now (and five times that again to make a
really nice car out of it).
Eric Kolb had this to say:
>What is the best place to find a MGB for sale? Also what problems and
>good things should I be looking for when test driving / looking the car
>over? Any well know place in Delaware, New Jersey, Pennsylvania and
>Maryland (basically northeast region)? I am looking for an MK I MGB.
>
>-Eric Kolb
>Kennett Square, Pennsylvania
>
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
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