The long cranking period is probably just the time it takes to build up fuel
pressure. Do like "Steve in NJ" and turn the key to position one for long
enough for the fuel pump to stop clicking (10 or 20 seconds), and then turn
it to the starting position. My B will often catch on the first spin when
doing this.
on 6/15/01 1:24 AM, Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com at Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com wrote:
> Curious,
>
> I a looking exactly for the same info.
> The old habit may work also for older cars with a hand operated choke,
> provided these are equipped with an "accellaration pump" like Solex had. I
> had these on my Simca's and have seen these on the German Fords.
>
> SU carbs don't work that way, so this has no use.
>
> With a cold engine I pull full choke and do not push the accelarator.
> I have to crank for an elongated period (20 seconds...) and then the engine
> starts fine.
>
> When the engine still is cold, but has been started shortly before, only a
> brief crank is needed to fire the engine still using the choke.
>
> When warm no choke is used and the engine starts fine with a brief crank.
>
> Why does the cold start needs an initial long cranking period???
>
> The engine has been fully adjusted recently by a knowledgable MG specialized
> mechanic.
> This did not change anything to this cranking. It made the engine run more
> smooth, give more power and lowered the fuel consumption.
>
> Does this look familiar?
>
>
> My engine is of the latest 18GK (US spec) series and the airpump has been
> removed.
> This is the original engine according to the BMHIT certificate.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
> February '71 BGT
>
> I'll be at Framingham MA next monday evening. anyone nearby????
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DenverD [mailto:DenverD@Texan.dk]
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 9:24 AM
> To: mgs
> Subject: "correct" starting procedure
>
>
> okay, i've waited patiently for books to arrive (via some slow
> boat) and now i'm out of patience, so:
>
> what is the "correct" starting procedure for a circ 1971 high
> compression 1800 engine with dual SUs and manual choke..
>
> i mean an "old" habit is once to the floor with the throttle and
> then release, before turning the key--but, that was to set the
> automatic choke--since there are none, need i continue that?
>
> i mean, at about 70 degrees F. and an engine 24 or more hours
> "cold" would you say:
>
> half choke and don't touch the throttle until ready to move, OR
> full choke and "goose" the throttle as soon at it fires, OR
> no choke and "some" throttle, OR . . .
>
> i guess i could experiment, but so far everything i've tried has
> been unsuccessful--and, after too long trying i resort to a shot of
> "diesel starting fluid" into each SU inlet...then, purr..
>
> DenverD - A Texan in Denmark
> 65B # GHN3L/33680; engine 18V581-H193
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
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