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Re: Was MGA Cooling, now Bezel Removal

To: "Edwin McCarroll" <emccarroll@mco.edu>, <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Was MGA Cooling, now Bezel Removal
From: "David Hill" <Davhill@btinternet.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 17:16:12 +0100
Hi, Edwin.

This works for later Smiths/Lucas/AC gauges-it might for yours.
If you look at the back of the gauge's rim, you should see some tiny
'claws'. The normal method is to rotate the rim so the claws line up with
cutouts in the gauge body. This doesn't work when the rim , glass and body
have gummed themselves together over the years.
What you can do is use an electrician's -sized screwdriver to bend the claws
up enough to loosen the rim. You have to go carefully to avoid cracking the
chrome plating or black finish but if you keep trying the rim, you should
find it ultimately becomes loose enough to turn.

Regards,
David Hill

----- Original Message -----
From: "Edwin McCarroll" <emccarroll@mco.edu>
To: <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 2:16 PM
Subject: Was MGA Cooling, now Bezel Removal


> Received good advice from the list on how to recalibrate the temp. gauge
to match thermometer readings vs. sender bulb unit.   Ultimately the advice
said to remove the needle from the gauge face and remount it to indicate the
temperature shown on the thermometer while immersed in a warmed up container
of water.     I managed to remove the sender bulb unit from the block and
proceeded to loosen the temp/oil press. gauge from the dash.   I am now
stymied because no matter what I tried I could not rotate the bezel ring to
remove it from the gauge.   It didn't budge an iota.   Any suggestions for
accomplishing such a task?

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