Tyson,
Take a look at the parts you have in the OD now and compare to the
illustration in the workshop manual. The manual is printed so that for
me, right handed, it's disorienting as I slide under the car, and I found
that I had a lot of trouble visualising the manual and the parts and
their relationship.
Seems to me that the solenoid pushed OUT when power was applied.
That shoves the ball bearing that acts like a valve.
Yes-you need that ball bearing.
Yes, rather than screw around trying to get old rubber parts to work,
buy all new rubber bits. I "thought" my old bits were ok, and spent hours
only to find out that they were not.
It's OK to test w/o the 3/4 switch (more accurately it's the 1/2
switch) but be sure to reconnect it. This bugger is hard to adjust, but
once adjusted it stays in adjustment.
Check the piston pump. Here's where my disorientation came it strong.
If it's installed 180 out, it almost looks ok, but it jams in the bore.
There is a slight offset to the roller on the piston, and you have to get
it per the illustration. In fact, before putting the sump back on and
filling with oil, you might push it in place with your finger and have
someone turn the engine by hand, in 4th gear, so you can feel the pump
operate properly.
Ah, when you finally get all the oil out of your eyes, ears and nose,
having a working OD makes it all worthwhile.
Bob
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