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Re: Car Trailer

To: kwaringa@dynsys.com
Subject: Re: Car Trailer
From: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 15:26:08 -0500
Ken,
  If you can securely support the tongue of  a flat-bed, you can drive
the MG onto it.  That can be hard to do, though.  If you have a curbing,
or a cut in the ground against which the tail of the trailer can be
pushed, loading is easier.  
  2x10 lumber for ramps will work,  and then they can be secured under
the car once it's aboard.  
  Other trailer tips--use shackles on the chains in place of the S-hooks
that most chains have.  Buy your own chains, good strong ones. Cross them
when hooking up.  Brakes on the trailer are very nice to have, even if
not required by the law.  Lights on the trailer that really work right
are rare, but nice to have.  One would like to find a system as good as
Lucas on most trailers.  Springs are cheap to buy--size the springs to
the weight of the load. Many times you will find the springs of the
trailer are too stiff for the load you will be carrying.  Grease the ball
hitch-reduces the grinding noise considerably.
Bob


On Wed, 20 Feb 2002 05:55:29 -0600 "Ken Waringa" <kwaringa@dynsys.com>
writes:
> I'm in the market for a trailer to haul my British Cars.  Those out 
> there
> with trailers, do you need a dovetail (rear 2 feet of the trailer 
> slope down
> at a different angle from the main bed) or will our cars clear with 
> just a
> flat bed?  I'm going to look at a flat bed trailer that sounds like 
> a pretty
> good deal this afternoon, but I'm afraid the cars will bottom out 
> when going
> onto the trailer without a dovetail.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken

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