I don't remember having any trouble dropping it last year. But then I
didn't move it out of the way. I just lowered it a bit onto a couple of
jack stands and put the new bushings in and put it backup. I had the
a-arms and kingpins, etc all out, since I was rebuilding everything.
On the later, I couldn't reach the rear bolt with the spring in the way.
Paul.+
James Nazarian wrote:
> It can be done, but I wouldn't do it with one person. If you have two, it
> may be worth the trouble, but having never replaced bearings with the engine
> in I can't say. The job gets vastly more difficult if you drop one of the
> front studs down into the crossmember. There are access holes to get a
> socket in to them but good luck getting the stud back in line once it falls
> through. Here are the highlights of my procedure.
>
> You will have a very hard time balancing this thing on a jack, a tranny jack
> might help but I don't know. If your new crossmember pads are a snug fit
> they will assist the bolts in not falling into the x-member, but what you
> will need to do is hold (or tape) the front bolts slightly extended while
> aligning the holes with the body. I could not get the crossmember to sit on
> the jack at any angle close to that it wanted to be installed at so I could
> not push the front bolts through and start the nuts. What I did was to
> install the rear bolts loosely and reposition the jack to allow me to jack
> the crossmember to an angle closer to the correct one. As soon as the angle
> gets about correct the front bolts will start contacting the frame and
> getting pushed back into the crossmember. You will need to forcefully align
> the crossmember while pushing the bolts via long extension and socket
> through the access hole on the bottom of the crossmember. All the while
> keeping the back bolts as loose as possible so that you have some room to
> play with. As I recall it took a fair amount of muscle, a second pair of
> hands, and some well placed four letter words to get it all together again.
> I did the job without the engine in place and did use the engine bay for a
> lot of the work, but I don't think that part would be much worse with an
> engine in the way.
>
> I would love to try one of those transmission jack inserts for a floor jack
> during a job like this and if I ever do the job again I will definitely buy
> one and try it out. There is definite room for work smarter not harder
> improvement in my method, and that jack insert might just be the ticket.
>
> James Nazarian
> 71 MGB Tourer
> 71 MGBGT V8
> 85 Dodge Ram
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chuck Renner" <crenner@dynalivery.com>
> To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 1:18 PM
> Subject: RE: Replacing rod bearings
>
>
>
>>>The last time I did this with the engine "in place", I lifted the
>>>engine a few inches so the oil pan could clear the cross member. I'm
>>>wondering if it might be easier the other way around, to drop the
>>>cross member to get clearance. I've never pulled a crossmember on an
>>>MGB, so I don't know just how much pain and nuisance I'm looking at,
>>>though I'd guess that taking it off is easier than putting it back
>>>on.
>>
>>Well, having done the taking off part, I can say that it isn't terribly
>>difficult. Disconnect the steering columm and the brake hard lines, and
>>then undo the four nuts on the studes that come up through the frame
>>rails.
>>
>>The only part that's really difficult about this is getting the works
>>balanced on a floor jack to wheel everything out. Of course, if you can
>>get the car high enough, you could leave the wheels on and wheel it out.
>>
>>I haven't yet gotten to the replacement portion of this, but as they
>>say, installation is the reverse of removal. Obviously you'll have the
>>added challenge of getting the holes lined up. Also, one of the studs
>>on each side goes inside the cross member, rather than being exposed, so
>>I expect those to be a bit fiddly.
>>
>>While the removal can be a one-person job, I think I'll want another set
>>of hands around for the replacement.
--
Paul T. Root E/Mail: proot@iaces.com
600 Stinson Blvd N.E., Fl 1S PAG: +1 (877) 693-7155
Minneapolis, MN 55413 WRK: +1 (612) 664-3385
FAX: +1 (612) 664-4779
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