I watched Twist do this very thing at the 2002 NAMGBR get together.
He would unbolt the head bolts one at a time in order, then re-torque the
bolt. He never had any more than on bolt loose at a time.
His reasoning for doing this before gaping the lifters was to insure that
the head had uniform pressure applied to it, so that you could get accurate
measurements when adjusting other things.
Harold
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "DON SCOTT" <rowdon@sonoma-county.org>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: head retorquing question
> I'd opt for the retorquing without back-off. This so logical.
> Do this from the middle of the head crosswise.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
> '71 BGT with '90 retorqued head
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "DON SCOTT" <rowdon@sonoma-county.org>
> To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 7:45 PM
> Subject: head retorquing question
>
>
> > Can anyone offer some tips on this? When retorquing a head, is the
proper
> > procedure to back off each nut/bolt then retighten, doing them all in
> > recommended sequence? And when backing off, how much? A friend was
told
> not
> > to back off the nuts/bolts first, just to retorque.
> >
> > Years ago, I had a Toyota Celica that was weeping coolant from between
> head
> > and block. I retorqued the head and it solved the problem. I used the
> > "back-off first" method at that time. It had an aluminum head on a cast
> iron
> > block rather than cast iron for both- I don't know if the procedure
varies
> by
> > application.
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