> Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 18:21:43 -0800 (PST)
> From: "Paul M." <rowman22001@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Painting questions
>
> Does anyone out there paint their own cars?
I've done a few - driveway & garage paint jobs... I call them 20/20 paint jobs -
they look good from 20 feet or at 20+ mph!
> I have found a decent crossflow spray booth
That sounds like the way to do it.
> My questions are these:
>
> 1) What kind of gun should I buy? Should I get an
> HVLP gun, or one of the regular kinds?
I currently have a conventional gun. I plan to buy an HVLP gun before my next
paint job. There is a learning curve with either and I expect that I'll be at
the bottom of the 'curve' when I get the new system. If you have someone to
tutor you, keep in mind what type of system they prefer when you make your
decision.
HVLP has the advantage of markedly reducing overspray & should thus use (i.e.
waste) less paint. There are two types of HVLP. 'True' & 'conversion'. True
HVLP uses a High Volume, Low Pressure air supply. Typically a unit that runs on
115V and has large diameter hoses running to the gun. Conversion guns convert
standard compressed air into HVLP but they do require large air compressors to
supply the volumes required. Be wary of conversion guns that claim to function
on 'homeowner' sizes of air compressors - they may indeed 'work' but not as
well as higher quality (higher priced) guns. You may be OK with the conversion
gun at the paint booth if it has a large air comprssor but how about for home
use?
Another thing to consider is adding a 'paint pot'. This allows you to prepare
more paint and keep painting instead of having to stop to refill your gun's
cup. I have a paint pot that I can put a quart or gallon can inside and then
paint away. It also allows me to twist & turn the gun to whatever angle works
best - including upside down. You can use a paint pot with either a
conventional or HVLP gun. If you are using a paint pot with the 'True' HVLP
system, you'll also need a source of compressed air (but not the large
compressor needed with a 'Conversion' gun).
> 2) What type of paint should I buy?
I've used acrylic lacquer & acrylic enamal & urethane enamals. My preference is
the urethane enamal. It cures fast enough that dust & bugs are not a huge
problem (for 20/20 paint jobs). If you are looking for 'repairability' (is this
for a race car?) keep in mind that clear coats are the trickiest to refinish.
> 3) How lethal are these various paints?
The catalyzed polyurethanes & eopxies are likely to be the most dangerous. You
only get one set of lungs - do everything you can to protect them. As my
previous jobs have been essentially 'out doors', I've just used cartridge
respirators. I don't know what would be advised inside a booth.
> 4) What BRAND of paint should I buy?
Any major brand should give good results. Buy what you can get locally and use
that brand's products from start to finish - i.e primers, fillers, paint, etc
to ensure compatability.
> 5) ...and how much paint do you think I'll need to buy in order to
> have enough for my MGB?
To just refinsh the exterior I think a gallon is plenty. If you are painting
the interior, the engine bay, and the boot, you might need twice that.
HTH,
Eric
Mebane, NC
1960 MGA
1978 MGB
|