1. In the UK I purchased from MGOC and had no problems, but I suspect you
are State-side.
2. Quite easy to install the main and dash harnesses, very fiddly and
awkward replacing the rear harness, I wouldn't do it again unless I really
had to. When fitting the main harness (push through from the cabin to
the engine compartment and remove from the cabin) there are sharp edges on
the holes in the firewall,
protect the loom wrapping from these with split sheathing over the edges.
Temporarily tape the spurs from the main harness either forwards or
backwards along the main run so as to end up with the thinnest maximum
diameter you can, although the earlier the harness the thinner it is, or you
can end up trying to pull all the legs of the octopus through the hole at
the same time rather than feeding four through first then pulling the other
four through!
3. Seats and carpets out aren't necessary, even for those models with a
handbrake switch. Centre console should come out, and dash, or at least
forward. Out is much easier with the later cars with the separate dash
harness.
4. Just replacing the main harness (or main and dash) should only take a
couple of days if there are no modifications and the operator is familiar
with reading circuit diagrams and wire colours, the correct loom has spurs
in all the right places for the components. You could spend another three
or four days or more on the rear harness, about half a day on the gearbox
harness, where you may have to drop the rear cross-member to gain sufficient
access to the reverse and OD switches etc.
5. Which are damaged? As I say, unless the rear loom has been damaged e.g.
from the pump shorting out and the white melting I would leave it in place.
Even then I might chose to run a new white instead. It is the main loom
that suffers most from corrosion at the front of the car. Replace all the
bullet connectors as a matter of course. Assemble with Vaseline as a
sealant and lubricant, and make sure the bullets are pushed fully home past
the first point of resistance. There is a tool to make this easy, but I
just cut a couple of notches in the handles of a pair of pliers.
6. The standard fusebox was fine when new and so should a replacement be.
I still have 30 year-old fuseboxes and they are fine, they only go bad after
many years of exposure to adverse weather conditions. I fitted blade-type
fuses for someone else as he wanted additional fuses, and I could get a
6-way blade-type (from a local auto electrician) in the same location and
fixing holes as the original 4-way. I also provided additional fuses and
relays for his uprated headlights and FI harness, again blade-type. At the
very least you should add in-line fuses (standard rating) to the fuel pump
and OD circuits as shorts on these can and will burn looms, but these can be
inserted into the bullet connectors where the main loom joins the rear and
gearbox looms respectively. Slightly more work is to provide 40, 50 or 60
amp fusible links in the browns that come from the alternator (one link) and
the browns from the fusebox, ignition switch etc (another link) close to
where they join the solenoid. That should protect all the looms against
meltdown in any electrical short conditions.
PaulH
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Furbish" <Barn.Owl@verizon.net>
To: "MG LIST" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 10:30 PM
Subject: 6 MGB GTwiring questions
> 1. Which company should I buy a Quality wiring harness from? 1a. approx.
cost?
> 2. Is it 'relatively' easy to install by a new car mechanic? who has
agreed to help me.
> 3. Should I take the seats and carpet out to make it easier?
> (I'm planning on taking these out anyways to clean the floor pan area
etc).
> 4. How long does it 'normally' take to do a neat job?
> 5. What harnesses should I replace?
> 6. Do you suggest I incorporate a 4 blade type fuse block? If so where
should I
> purchase such an item?
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