The rust is on the vertical baffle wall which is visible through the
sending unit hole. It looks very superficial. Based on what you said
it sounds like it would be ok "as is" after the sealing compound is
applied as this would deprive the rust of air and water. The
instructions (see link below) say that compressed air through the
pickup will prevent the sealer from gumming up the screen.
The drain plug is infrequently used, but can be quite convenient when
you need it. The car is a 1972 N. American spec roadster, and the
original tank has a drain plug. I don't know whether it was factory
or aftermarket fit.
On 11/12/06, Paul Hunt <email@example.com> wrote:
> Where is the surface rust? If at the bottom then on the one hand it will
> have petrol covering it so shouldn't rust further, but on the other when
> condensation slowly develops in the tank it *will* have water on the bottom.
> However it needs both water and air to rust, so should still be OK. If
> higher up i.e. above the fuel line a significant amount of the time then it
> could continue to rust. One hears of internal coatings one can pour in and
> swill round, but one also hears that they block the screen and suction pipe
> where these are part of the tanks construction. Why bother with a drain
> plug? the tank should be fit and forget item once externally painted. You
> can change senders (which should be another infrequent exercise) with up to
> 1/4 tank if you raise the right rear corner. However if it *is* a Heritage
> tank, I'd expect them to be 'correct' i.e. have a drain plug if one was
> provided on that model originally. What year is the car? I thought only
> the early strap-on tanks had a drain plug, and Heritage don't seem to do
> that one.
> ----- Original Message -----
> > ... I plan to clean with Simple Green,
> > then etch and seal using the Moss products.
> > Secondly, I would like to add a drain plug.