Dear, 1971-red-mgb.
My 2-cents.
I switched from solid flat disk rotors to cross-drilled when I took my '66 B
racing. I changed to slotted & cross-drilled next time I needed rotors. At
the price, why not?
In 6 years of racing, I never had a problem with them as described. However
- those problems ARE something to consider. Good quality and careful
preparation by camphering (sp?) the edges of the holes will help.
I will say that I can't ever remember any competitor out-braking me in my
MGB. I used Kevlar pads on the track & semi-metallics on the street.
I also cut a slot in the street pads for water dissipation. That was done
with a cross-cut hand saw about half-way through the brake material of the
pad. There are some pads made this way. If you do it yourself, wear a
respirator. Don't know what kind of stuff is in those pads.
I found that the combination of slotted pads & slotted disks helped in the
rain. I used my B both on the road & on the track. Often drove in the rain
on local streets & highways. Never had the "opportunity" to drive in rain
on the track.
Bottom line - if you need to replace the disks & you want better braking,
and you aren't buying junk, or putting them through extreme hot - cool
cycles, spend the few extra $$ to get them. On the basis of value for $$,
it is probably a relative gain. Just be aware that you can not get a shop
to turn your rotors on their machines if you want to re-surface them. The
holes can destroy the bits that cut the disk back.
Norm Sippel
no more disk brake LBCs, all drums now.
_______________________________________________
Edit your replies
Mgs@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
|