In my experience when the engine is 'stuck', you need to oil the cylinders
with penetrating oil designed to break-up rust. Lots of it. Then try to turn
the engine with a wrench on the crank pulley nut. Jog the nut back and forth a
little each day for up to a week. The engine will usually break thru the
cylinder wall rust and start to move. Then add engine oil to the cylinders and
rotate frequently for a day. After that it should be OK to start. I always
crank it by starter with the plugs removed until oil pressure is observed on
the dash gauge. Then you should have some oil in the crank bearings etc and
you can replace the spark plugs and start the engine. My 2 cents. JOHN CAHOON
in Cleveland Ohio
--- On Sun, 3/21/10, Max Heim <max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:
> From: Max Heim <max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine
Frustration
> To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, March 21,
2010, 7:50 PM
> If it is in neutral, with the plugs
> out, and you cannot
rotate the engine
> with the big nut on the crank, then I am afraid you are in
> a world of hurt.
> Try forward and back, of course.
>
> There is not going
to be any "quick check".
>
> Might as well take the valve cover off and look
for a bent
> valvestem.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If
you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 3/21/10 11:01 AM, Richard Ewald at richard.ewald@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
> > did you remove the plugs and try to turn it over?
> >
> > On Sun, Mar 21,
2010 at 9:00 AM, Craig Straub
> > <craigstraub@sbcglobal.net>wrote:
> >
> >>
The engine will not phsycially turn over by
> hand. You can talk all you
> >>
want about electrics, it is not an electrical
> problem.
> >>
> >> Craig
>
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