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Yeah, I went out to the garage last night and tried, yet again, to get a piece
of coathanger wire up into that passage without avail. I may have a more
flexible piece of wire to try this evening. It may nit be the end of the world,
but I like for things to work if they will. Had I known this would he an issue
when I had the head off about five years ago, I would have tried to remedy it
then. Could I suck the coolant out with a shop vac?Sent from my LG
Mobile------ Original message------From: PaulHunt73Date: Thu, May 9, 2019 3:44
AMTo: Dan DiBiase;wkilleffer@epbfi.com;Cc: mgs@autox.team.net;Subject:Re: [Mgs]
Coolant draining on an MGB
Even if you remove the radiator altogether the block is still
half full of old coolant, and removing the water pump doesn't get much more
out. Remember the original poster was asking how to get the bad coolant
out. Having a drain point on the rad is convenient for
a simple drain and refill, but that's all.
Â
You can drain a roadster cleanly without that by shoving a
piece of card under the hose and past the cross-member over a bowl, slacken the
hose clip and push it right back, then push a blunt screwdriver up between hose
and rad port. It only trickles out, but I leave it to do that while I
get on with the next phase of the job.
Â
I'd be surprised if the later engines didn't have the drain
plug (replaced the tap a long time before that) below and to the right of the
oil gauge connection, but try as I might with stiff wire I didn't get any more
than a rusty dampness below it. Frequently clogged with casting sand, some
have had to 'chisel' it out with rods after removing the head.
Â
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
Â
On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. You have to
pull the lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. It's a
mess. Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then it tends
to run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a
mess.
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<div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div dir="auto">Yeah, I went out to the
garage last night and tried, yet again, to get a piece of coathanger wire up
into that passage without avail. I may have a more flexible piece of wire to
try this evening. It may nit be the end of the world, but I like for things to
work if they will. Had I known this would he an issue when I had the head off
about five years ago, I would have tried to remedy it then. </div><div
dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Could I suck the coolant out with a shop
vac?</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div id="LGEmailSignatureBox"
dir="auto"><div dir="auto" font-size:9pt;"=""><i>Sent from my LG
Mobile</i></div></div></div><div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div
id="LGEmailHeader" dir="auto"><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">------
Original message------</div><div dir="auto"><b>From:
</b>PaulHunt73<paulhunt73@virginmedia.com></paulhunt73@virginmedia.com></div><div
dir="auto"><b>Date: </b>Thu, May 9, 2019 3:44 AM</div><div dir="auto"><b>To:
</b>Dan DiBiase<a
href="mailto:;wkilleffer@epbfi.com";>;wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a>;</div><div
dir="auto"><b>Cc: </b><a
href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net";>mgs@autox.team.net</a>;</div><div
dir="auto"><b>Subject:</b>Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB</div><div
dir="auto"><br></div></div>
<div><font size="2">Even if you remove the radiator altogether the block is
still
half full of old coolant, and removing the water pump doesn't get much more
out. Remember the original poster was asking how to get the bad coolant
out. </font><font size="2">Having a drain point on the rad is convenient
for
a simple drain and refill, but that's all.</font></div>
<div><font size="2"></font> </div>
<div><font size="2">You can drain a roadster cleanly without that by shoving a
piece of card under the hose and past the cross-member over a bowl, slacken the
hose clip and push it right back, then push a blunt screwdriver up between hose
and rad port. It only trickles out, but I leave it to do that while
I
get on with the next phase of the job.</font></div>
<div><font size="2"></font> </div>
<div><font size="2">I'd be surprised if the later engines didn't have the drain
plug (replaced the tap a long time before that) below and to the right of the
oil gauge connection, but try as I might with stiff wire I didn't get any more
than a rusty dampness below it. Frequently clogged with casting sand,
some
have had to 'chisel' it out with rods after removing the head.</font></div>
<div><font size="2"></font> </div>
<div><font size="2">PaulH.</font></div>
<blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px;
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
<div><font size="2"></font> </div>
<div dir="ltr">On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. You have
to
pull the lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. It's a
mess. Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then it tends
to run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a
mess.</div></blockquote></div>
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