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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I wrote earlier but will repeat it here. Put your timing light on the #1
plug wire and observe the timing mark. Is it steady at idle? If not, the
problem is probably in your distributor. When I rebuilt the distributor in
my GT6, I discovered that someone had replaced one of the advance springs
with a modified ball point pen (biro) spring! But even with new correct
springs, the idle timing jumped around.
I verified that the distributor shaft bushings were not worn. That is,
no shaft wobble. However, the pivot shafts and holes in the advance
mechanism were worn, allowing the weights to move on their own, and thus
the timing, but only at idle. Once spun up against the stops, the timing
was constant.
I found the same wear problem in both my TR3b and TD! Pertronix
distributors fixed the problem and let me set a smooth, constant slow idle.
The OEM distributors are boxed up for the next owners.
Rick
On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 7:24 AM Robert's New iPad <mgbobh@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks for this idea, and for introducing Laboratory Grease. Unknown t=
o
> me, I found it on Amazon for $6.75 the one ounce container. That will be=
a
> handy addition to the first-aid kit I keep.
> Fortunately, this engine=E2=80=99s carb shafts are snug. Carbs were reb=
uilt 10
> years, 2500 miles ago, so the problem is not their shafts.
> I look forward to spending some time with it this weekend.
> Bob
>
>
> On Jun 14, 2019, at 7:52 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hans wrote,
>
> > When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts.
>
> So important. Here's a trick, a Bandaid or plaster if you will, to get
> you by if costly rebuilds are not an option. Fixing worn throttle shaft
> bores with new bushings is a serious repair, and the correct way to fix t=
he
> vacuum leak. However, the following short term solution is to address the
> symptom, not the problem.
>
> Disassemble all the linkage at the carburetors. Purchase a few felt
> washers the size of the throttle shafts or a little smaller, and a tube o=
f
> laboratory vacuum grease, the stuff they use to seal vacuum leaks in
> laboratory glassware. Saturate the felt washers with vacuum grease as wel=
l
> as the shafts where they exit the carb body and slide the greased washers
> up against the body. Place a flat washer on the shaft and reassemble the
> linkage, pressing the flat washer gently against the felt washer. The fla=
t
> washer and linkage will hold the greased felt washer in place and the
> vacuum grease will seal the vacuum leak!
>
> Vacuum grease is made to withstand a bit of heat but also, to not
> 'migrate'. It will stay in place rather than get sucked into the carb's
> choke like regular grease would do (once hot). The felt washer also helps=
.
>
> Yes, this is a temporary fix, not a proper repair. But it is also a $1=
0 temporary
> fix, not a $500 repair.
>
> A final word. Take care to reinstall the air chamber covers correctly
> (Not interchanged!) and verify that the air pistons drop freely on to the
> bridge with the dampers removed. Tighten the cover screws evenly working
> around the carb until they are snug.
>
> Good luck! You're on the right track.
>
>
> Rick
> On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 2:16 AM Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
> wrote:
>
>> Good show Bob!
>>
>> When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts.
>>
>> Especially at lower revs play causes false air taken into the carb, with
>> bad low speed driving as a result.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Hans
>>
>>
>>
>> *Van:* Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh@gmail.com]
>> *Verzonden:* vrijdag 14 juni 2019 0:21
>> *Aan:* Richard Lindsay
>> *CC:* Hans Duinhoven; mgs@autox.team.net List
>> *Onderwerp:* Re: [Mgs] Silly error.
>>
>>
>>
>> Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of
>> float chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of
>> compressed air on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the
>> passage. If not, we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF,
>> with its side panels diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult=
.
>>
>> It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB,
>> after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it
>> improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I s=
ent
>> the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the
>> engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved =
the
>> distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 10=
0%
>> sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not=
as
>> easy as in TD.
>>
>> Fuel, air, spark=E2=80=94we are working to get them all in proper prop=
ortion.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Keep cleaning Bob. :-)
>>
>>
>>
>> My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed
>> issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they =
ran
>> fantastic! The slow idle was perfect.
>>
>>
>>
>> So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad <mgbobh@gmail.com> wrote=
:
>>
>> Good on both of you.
>>
>> Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a
>> friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm,
>> sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000.
>>
>> Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers.
>> One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some=
of
>> that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid.
>>
>> The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far large=
r
>> than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, t=
he
>> additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the
>> tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional
>> filter-none had any grit or sediment.
>>
>> Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says.
>>
>> Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment
>> is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day
>> yesterday.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net=
>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in
>> two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the
>> engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks=
.
>>
>> I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A
>> couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a fe=
w
>> laps around the shop and all was still well.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Funny =E2=80=93 I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday.
>>
>> Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to
>> replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump.
>>
>> A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom
>> of the radiator pipe.
>>
>> Nut with a dry result!
>>
>>
>>
>> Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal
>> particles.
>>
>> Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow.
>>
>> Then the GT should be roadworthy again.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Hans
>>
>> 71 BGT NRG -
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] *Namens *Richard Lindsay
>> via Mgs
>> *Verzonden:* woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51
>> *Aan:* mgs@autox.team.net List
>> *Onderwerp:* [Mgs] Silly error.
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Friends,
>>
>> My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issu=
e
>> is universal. Here's the short story.
>>
>> When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a
>> hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body =
to
>> the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threa=
ded
>> hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks.
>>
>> I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and plac=
e
>> fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes
>> the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD=
.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>
>>
>> [image: Afbeelding verwijderd door afzender.]
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&ut=
m_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient>
>>
>> Virusvrij. www.avast.com
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&ut=
m_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com
>>
>>
--000000000000fd5be5058b47edb5
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I wrote earlier but will repeat it here. Put=
your timing light on the #1 plug wire and observe the timing mark. Is it s=
teady at idle? If not, the problem is probably in your distributor. When I =
rebuilt the distributor in my GT6, I discovered that someone had replaced o=
ne of the advance springs with a modified ball point pen (biro) spring! But=
even with new correct springs, the idle timing jumped around.<div dir=3D"a=
uto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I verified that the distributor shaft bushings were not w=
orn. That is, no shaft wobble. However, the pivot shafts and holes in the a=
dvance mechanism were worn, allowing the weights to move on their own, and =
thus the timing, but only at idle. Once spun up against the stops, the timi=
ng was constant.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I found the same wear =
problem in both my TR3b and TD! Pertronix distributors fixed the problem an=
d let me set a smooth, constant slow idle. The OEM distributors are boxed u=
p for the next owners.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">R=
ick</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gma=
il_attr">On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 7:24 AM Robert's New iPad <<a href=3D=
"mailto:mgbobh@gmail.com";>mgbobh@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockqu=
ote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc s=
olid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D=
"ltr">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Thanks for this idea, and for introducing Laboratory Gre=
ase. Unknown to me, I found it on Amazon for $6.75 the one ounce container.=
=C2=A0 That will be a handy addition to the first-aid kit I keep.</div><div=
dir=3D"ltr">=C2=A0 Fortunately, this engine=E2=80=99s carb shafts are snug=
. Carbs were rebuilt 10 years, 2500 miles ago, so the problem is not their =
shafts.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"ltr">=C2=A0 I look forward to spending some =
time with it this weekend.</div><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob</div><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Jun 14, 2019, at 7:52 AM, Richard Lindsay=
<<a href=3D"mailto:richardolindsay@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"=
noreferrer">richardolindsay@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquo=
te type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"auto"><p>Hans wrote,</p><p>&g=
t; When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts.<b=
r></p><p>=C2=A0 =C2=A0So important. Here's a trick, a Bandaid or plaste=
r if you will, to get you by if costly rebuilds are not an option. Fixing w=
orn throttle shaft bores with new bushings is a serious repair, and the cor=
rect way to fix the vacuum leak. However, the following short term solution=
is to address the symptom, not the problem.</p><p>=C2=A0 =C2=A0Disassemble=
all the linkage at the carburetors. Purchase a few felt washers the size o=
f the throttle shafts or a little smaller, and a tube of laboratory vacuum =
grease, the stuff they use to seal vacuum leaks in laboratory glassware. Sa=
turate the felt washers with vacuum grease as well as the shafts where they=
exit the carb body and slide the greased washers up against the body. Plac=
e a flat washer on the shaft and reassemble the linkage, pressing the flat =
washer gently against the felt washer. The flat washer and linkage will hol=
d the greased felt washer in place and the vacuum grease will seal the vacu=
um leak!</p><p>=C2=A0 =C2=A0Vacuum grease is made to withstand a bit of hea=
t but also, to not 'migrate'. It will stay in place rather than get=
sucked into the carb's choke like regular grease would do (once hot). =
The felt washer also helps.</p><p>=C2=A0 =C2=A0Yes, this is a temporary fix=
, not a proper repair. But it is also a <span class=3D"m_263526785762837601=
6money">$10</span>=C2=A0temporary fix, not a <span class=3D"m_2635267857628=
376016money">$500</span>=C2=A0repair.=C2=A0</p><p>=C2=A0 =C2=A0A final word=
. Take care to reinstall the air chamber covers correctly (Not interchanged=
!) and verify that the air pistons drop freely on to the bridge with the da=
mpers removed. Tighten the cover screws evenly working around the carb unti=
l they are snug.</p><p>Good luck! You're on the right track.</p><p><br>=
</p><p>Rick</p><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" cla=
ss=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 2:16 AM Hans Duinhoven <<a href=
=3D"mailto:h.duinhoven@planet.nl"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">h.du=
inhoven@planet.nl</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote"=
style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><d=
iv lang=3D"NL" link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"purple"><div class=3D"m_2635267857628=
376016m_726327898642918341WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=
=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"=
;color:#1f497d">Good show Bob!<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri=
","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">When checking the carbs, also =
verify any play on the butterfly shafts.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&=
quot;Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Especially at lowe=
r revs play causes false air taken into the carb, with bad low speed drivin=
g as a result.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D=
"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","san=
s-serif";color:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"Mso=
Normal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Ca=
libri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Cheers,<u></u><u></u></sp=
an></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0p=
t;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Han=
s<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=
=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"=
;color:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><div><div style=3D"border:no=
ne;border-top:solid #b5c4df 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm"><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",=
"sans-serif"">Van:</span></b><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font=
-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""> Robert's New iPad [=
mailto:<a href=3D"mailto:mgbobh@gmail.com"; rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">mgbobh@gmail.com</a>] <br><b>Verzonden:</b> vrijdag 14 juni=
2019 0:21<br><b>Aan:</b> Richard Lindsay<br><b>CC:</b> Hans Duinhoven; <a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"=
_blank">mgs@autox.team.net</a> List<br><b>Onderwerp:</b> Re: [Mgs] Silly er=
ror.<u></u><u></u></span></p></div></div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=
=A0<u></u></p><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Sunday afternoon is =
our project day. I want to remove the tops of float chambers again, the cov=
ers and pistons, and to try a bit of compressed air on the jet to see if th=
at will dislodge anything in the passage.=C2=A0 If not, we can drop the jet=
s out, but that is awkward on a TF, with its side panels diabolically place=
d to make any carb work difficult.<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal">=C2=A0 =C2=A0It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertro=
nix for my MGB, after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. =C2=A0 =
I did, and it improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years=
later, I sent the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to kno=
w about the engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, the=
n curved the distributor to fit.=C2=A0 This engine runs very well now. Thou=
gh he is not 100% sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of=
the MGB is not as easy as in TD. =C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p cla=
ss=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0 Fuel, air, spark=E2=80=94we are working to get them=
all in proper proportion.<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l">Bob<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-b=
ottom:12.0pt"><br>On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay <<a href=
=3D"mailto:richardolindsay@gmail.com"; rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">richardolindsay@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<u></u><u></u></p></div=
><blockquote style=3D"margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt"><div><div><p cl=
ass=3D"MsoNormal">Keep cleaning Bob. :-)<u></u><u></u></p><div><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">My TD =
and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed issues. I =
ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran fantastic=
! The slow idle was perfect.=C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">So che=
ck the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable.=C2=A0<u></u><u></=
u></p></div></div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><div><div>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad =
<<a href=3D"mailto:mgbobh@gmail.com"; rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" targe=
t=3D"_blank">mgbobh@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<u></u><u></u></p></div><blockq=
uote style=3D"border:none;border-left:solid #cccccc 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0=
cm 6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm"><div><div><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l">=C2=A0 Good on both of you.<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoN=
ormal">=C2=A0 Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenge=
r with a friend in his TF, stored a year or so.=C2=A0 It ran out of go at 2=
500 rpm, sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. =C2=A0<u><=
/u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0 Back at the garage, =
found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One had a teaspoon of larg=
e chunks of solid material. The other had some of that, plus a goo that loo=
ked like frog-egg liquid. =C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal">=C2=A0 The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks ar=
e far larger than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump=
filter, the additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filt=
er in the tank, it was a puzzle.=C2=A0 We could check banjo, pump and addit=
ional filter-none had any grit or sediment.=C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p></div><d=
iv><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0 Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity tha=
t workshop manual says.<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=
=C2=A0 Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sedimen=
t is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day ye=
sterday.<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Bob<u></u><u></=
u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div><div>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:12.0pt"><br>On Jun 13, 2019, =
at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs <<a href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.ne=
t" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">mgs@autox.team.net</a>&g=
t; wrote:<u></u><u></u></p></div><blockquote style=3D"margin-top:5.0pt;marg=
in-bottom:5.0pt"><div><div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Good wo=
rk Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in two bolts in=
the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the engine up to te=
mperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks.<u></u><u></u></p=
></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I also found a small fuel l=
eak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple of spannet twists put that rig=
ht and dry. With that, we made a few laps around the shop and all was still=
well.<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u><=
/u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Rick<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><=
p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><div><div><p class=3D"MsoNorm=
al">On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven <<a href=3D"mailto:h.du=
inhoven@planet.nl" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">h.duinho=
ven@planet.nl</a>> wrote:<u></u><u></u></p></div><blockquote style=3D"bo=
rder:none;border-left:solid #cccccc 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm 6.0pt;margin-=
left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm"><div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D=
"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","san=
s-serif";color:#1f497d">Funny =E2=80=93 I solved coolant issues earlie=
r and yesterday.</span><u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=
=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","=
sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Had to replace the thermostat housing gaske=
t and yesterday I had to replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pi=
pe to the waterpump.</span><u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span l=
ang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",&qu=
ot;sans-serif";color:#1f497d">A horrible job to do, as there is almost=
no space to work at the bottom of the radiator pipe.</span><u></u><u></u><=
/p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;fo=
nt-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Nut wit=
h a dry result!</span><u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=
=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","=
sans-serif";color:#1f497d">=C2=A0</span><u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"=
;Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Fully cleaned a clogge=
d charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles.</span><u></u><u></u><=
/p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;fo=
nt-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Replace=
d the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow.</span><u></u>=
<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:1=
1.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d"=
>Then the GT should be roadworthy again.</span><u></u><u></u></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&=
quot;Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">=C2=A0</span><u></=
u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size=
:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497=
d">Cheers,</span><u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-=
US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-se=
rif";color:#1f497d">Hans</span><u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal=
"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri&=
quot;,"sans-serif";color:#1f497d">71 BGT NRG - </span><u></u><u><=
/u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0p=
t;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">=C2=
=A0</span><u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" sty=
le=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif&quo=
t;;color:#1f497d">=C2=A0</span><u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><sp=
an lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri"=
,"sans-serif";color:#1f497d">=C2=A0</span><u></u><u></u></p><p cl=
ass=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Taho=
ma","sans-serif"">Van:</span></b><span style=3D"font-size:10=
.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""> Mgs [mailto:<a=
href=3D"mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" t=
arget=3D"_blank">mgs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>Namens </b>Richard Lind=
say via Mgs<br><b>Verzonden:</b> woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51<br><b>Aan:</b>=
<a href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">mgs@autox.team.net</a> List<br><b>Onderwerp:</b> [Mgs] Silly er=
ror.</span><u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p=
><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Hi Friends,<u></u><u></u></p><div><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal">=C2=A0 =C2=A0My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not =
an MG but the issue is universal. Here's the short story.<u></u><u></u>=
</p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0 =C2=A0When reassembling the wa=
terpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry and left out two bolts, som=
e of the bolts that hold the pump body to the head. The coolant leak is thr=
ough one of those bolt holes. The threaded hole drilling entered the head&#=
39;s water jacket and of course, leaks.<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p clas=
s=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant =
to the threads and place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing =
so hopefully completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing=
the top on my MG TD.<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=
=C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Rick<u></u><u></u=
></p></div></div></div><div id=3D"m_2635267857628376016m_726327898642918341=
m_-737199480811640730m_-2666518911097195659DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9=
FDF2"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><table class=3D"m_2635=
267857628376016m_726327898642918341MsoNormalTable" border=3D"1" cellpadding=
=3D"0" style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #d3d4de 1.0pt"><tbody><tr><td =
width=3D"55" style=3D"width:41.25pt;border:none;padding:13.5pt .75pt .75pt =
.75pt"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?ut=
m_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm=
_content=3Demailclient" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"><sp=
an style=3D"border:solid windowtext 1.0pt;padding:0cm;text-decoration:none"=
><img border=3D"0" width=3D"46" height=3D"29" id=3D"m_2635267857628376016m_=
726327898642918341_x0000_i1025" src=3D"cid:image001.jpg@01D52291.C803EB40" =
alt=3D"Afbeelding verwijderd door afzender."></span></a><u></u><u></u></p><=
/td><td width=3D"470" style=3D"width:352.5pt;border:none;padding:12.75pt .7=
5pt .75pt .75pt"><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"line-height:13.5pt"><span =
style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif&qu=
ot;;color:#41424e">Virusvrij. <a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?ut=
m_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm=
_content=3Demailclient" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"><sp=
an style=3D"color:#4453ea">www.avast.com</span></a> <u></u><u></u></span></=
p></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div></blockquote></div></div></div></di=
v></blockquote><blockquote style=3D"margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt"><=
div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">_______________________________________________<=
br><br><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.t=
eam.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http:/=
/www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested annual donation =C2=A0$12.75<br>=
<br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs"; rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs</a> <a hr=
ef=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe: <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com"; rel=3D"nore=
ferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/=
mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com</a><u></u><u></u></p></div></blockquote></div></blockq=
uote></div></div></blockquote></div></div></blockquote></div></div>
</div></blockquote></div></blockquote></div>
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