Will Zehring <wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu> writes
>Quick question: How easy is it to pull a 4/4 engine and leave the tranny
>behind? My only experience is with MGAs and MGBs (in which cases it is
>difficult but not impossible). Any experience with this? I'd like to keep
>the tranny in.
>
>Thanks,
>
>p.s. blasphemous question: a friend has offered an interesting trade: his
>well sorted TVR 1971 2500M (w/ GT6 engine and OD tranny, freshly renovated
>interior/exterior and frame) for my 4/4 "as is" (that is, with its
>suspected rear main oil leak). This is a handsome and quick car. I quickly
>said if he threw in an additional 2k$ I'd accept. He balked. What d'ya think?
>
Taking out a 4/4 engine is easy, so long as you don't try and save time
by not taking things off.
Using a good engine hoist, (or block and tackle from a roof beam), it
shouldn't take more than 3 hours taken slowly and labelling everything.
Disconnect the battery
Take the bonnet, (hood?!) off.
Take the cowl off, (see below).
Take the radiator out- some would say not necessary, but sticking the
fan through it is embarrasing.
Depending on the engine and transmission installed and the expected
length of the first motion shaft, consider taking the water pump and
pulleys off. For a 4/4 1600, there is very little clearence between the
bell housing and the input shaft with the engine pulled right forward.
Take the exhaust and inlet manifolds off- the engine bay is plenty wide
enough, but denting the inner wings is also embarrasing.
Plug up the fuel line and tape this and all other leads, cables etc. to
the inner wings or bulkheads- it makes putting the engine back much less
fiddly.
Prop up the gearbox at the front. For some car specifications this isn't
necessary as the gearbox is supported at front and rear, for a Ford
2000E 4 speed it is!
Connect the engine to the hoist
Take off the starter, tape the lead to the bulkhead.
Remove all of the bellhousing bolts- some 4/4s have a rod operated
clutch- do a diagram of this before you dismantle it, as reassembly will
be seriously taxing otherwise!- most other types won't be disturbed.
Take the strain on the hoist and dismantle the engine mounts.
Ideally, with two of you, pull the engine forward to clear the first
motion shaft, then tilt the nose up as you lift the engine to clear the
car. (A good engine hoist on wheels makes the second person a waste of
good beer, although the extra pair of eyes is useful)
(The additional dismantling at the front, over and above the bare
minimum reduces the chance of damage to owner, bodywork and engine).
Reassembly is the reverse, but remember to put the water pump back on
before you refix the radiator- it's much easier.
As for the second question, I'd stick with the Morgan- the bits are
cheaper, but I'm biased. TVR 2500Ms are not very common in the UK- the
vast majority were exported, the few here are very quick as they don't
have the anti-smog gear. In the UK the Morgan is worth more- it's a good
problem to have! depending on how good the TVR was and how battered the
Morgan was it could even be too close to call.
--
Jeremy Edwards
1972 Morgan 4/4 2 str
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