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RE: Starting when hot.....

To: "'morgans@autox.team.net'" <morgans@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: RE: Starting when hot.....
From: "Hooley, Tim T" <Tim.Hooley@gs.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 14:21:56 -0000
Happy new year!

Many thanks to everyone who replied to my original mail - the broad and
insightful responses were fascinating...

I have identified the problem as a corroded battery earth lead connection
which appears to be the result of water collecting around the bolt (mainly
when I wash the car....!)

I have cleaned up the lead, applied some grease and will ensure that after
washing I always go for a run to give the engine compartment a chance to
dry.

Once again, many thanks!


Tim.

--------------------

> ----------
> From:         MOGLOOM@aol.com[SMTP:MOGLOOM@aol.com]
> Sent:         02 November 1998 17:05
> To:   Hooley, Tim T
> Subject:      Re: Starting when hot.....
> 
> Tim: Sounds like starter brgs (bushings) need to be replaced. When hot it
> allows the armature to rub on the field coils. This is common on most cars
> after several years of age. Not just Morgans!!!
> Cheers,
> Richard Williams
> 4/4 '56 Series II A-258
> 
> 
> ----------
> From:         Ray[SMTP:ray@millicom.clara.net]
> Sent:         02 November 1998 16:25
> To:   Hooley, Tim T
> Subject:      RE: Starting when hot.....
> Importance:   High
> 
> Hi to check the chassis earth - just put a starting jumper lead from the
> block to the battery earth side - if that solves the problem - you know
> where the fault lies...
> 
> Rgds
> 
> 
> Ray
> 
> ----------
> From:         Willburn, Gerry[SMTP:Gerry.Willburn@trw.com]
> Sent:         02 November 1998 15:16
> To:   Hooley, Tim T
> Subject:      RE: Starting when hot.....
> 
> Tim,
> 
> I have not heard of the FIAT +4 having this problem before but it is
> probably related to the same problem that Alfa's Chevvy's and most other
> cars with the selenoid mounted to the starter motor.
> 
> The problem relates to not having enough battery voltage to pull in the
> selenoid when hot.  The symptoms are similar to a low (or dead) battery (a
> low battery will agrivate the problem) and goes away after the car cools
> off
> a bit.  It has to do with the wimpy wiring to the starter and the
> resistance
> of the key switch.
> 
> I cured the problem on my Alfa by mounting a horn relay RIGHT AT THE
> STARTER.  I used the hot battery lead to the starter as the hot wire with
> the horn lead to the selenoid.  The old selenoid wire was used to actuate
> the relay.  No more problem!  The Corvette people go to great lenghts to
> try
> and heat shield the starter.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Gerry
> 
> ----------
> From:         John Hameleers[SMTP:jhamelee@best.ms.philips.com]
> Sent:         02 November 1998 10:29
> To:   Hooley, Tim T
> Subject:      Re: Starting when hot.....
> 
> Hello Tim,
> 
> I have had a simular problem with my 1987 Morgan. In cold condition it
> was no problem at all to start the engine and as soon as the motor
> became hot, it became very difficult to start the engine.
> 
> After some "trouble shooting" I found a "bad contact" between the cable
> connection of the motor to the chassis. In the motor compartment near
> the frontwheel you will find a cable connection between the motor and
> the chassis (negative earth connection). Due to some bad contact between
> the cable eye tag and the chassis (paint not sufficiently removed from
> the factory) there was some resistance in the connection and as soon as
> the motor became hot, the resistance increased, causing a drop of the
> voltage of the battery resulting in a very lazy and very slowly turning
> startmotor.
>  
> So, what you also could do is, to check the battery voltage as soon as
> the motor is hot and the start motor is getting lazy. Incase you see a
> drop of the battery voltage from 12V to 8 or 9 Volt, I would suggest to
> have a look to a possible bad connection of the motor/chassis cable
> connection.
> To measure the battery voltage, I would suggest to use a "portable"
> voltmeter, because the voltmeter of the Morgan dashboard has a very slow
> reaction time.
> 
> After removal of some paint from the chassis near the chassis connection
> bolt (to make good contact) and cleaning of the cable eye tag, the
> starting problem disappeared and I have been driving trouble free for
> over the last 9 years.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> John.
> 
> '87 4/4
> '39 MX4 SS
> 
> ----------
> From:         VanBlanken@aol.com[SMTP:VanBlanken@aol.com]
> Sent:         31 October 1998 22:41
> To:   Hooley, Tim T
> Subject:      Re: Starting when hot.....
> 
> Assuming the armature isn't swelling up and making starting difficult
> (which
> can happen as cars get older), I would check the engine/starter ground to
> chassis/battery.  Grounds that look good when cold can develop really high
> resistance when the electrons have been trying to flow.  If something
> electrical doesn't make sense (like you are POSITIVE there is nothing
> wrong
> with the starter), it is ALWAYS a bad ground.
> 
> 
-----------------------

> ----------
> From:         gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com[SMTP:gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com] on
> behalf of SOLOW GREG[SMTP:gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com]
> Sent:         02 November 1998 00:24
> To:   Hooley, Tim T; 'morgans@autox.team.net'
> Subject:      RE: Starting when hot.....
> 
> It sounds like something in the electrical circuit for the starter is
> getting high resistance when it gets hot.  
> 1. Check the battery cables and the connections at both the battery and at
> the ground and at the starter. Make certain that they are all clean and
> tight. 
> 2. Use a ammeter to check the stater draw when it is hot and
> malfunctioning. It should be over 100amps and less than 200 amps.  If it
> is low the problem is most likley a bad connection, if it is high , it is
> most likely a bad starter. You can also use a volt meter  to check
> "voltage drop" in the starter power and ground ciruits.  To do this you
> hook a volt meter in parallel  with the circuit to be measure while the
> circuit is in operation.  This will probably take two people.  While the
> starter is cranking, connect the two leads of a volt meter between the
> positive battery post and the battery cable connection frist on the
> solenoid(which on your Fiat engine is part of the starter) and then in a
> second test on the heavy connector between the solenoid and the starter
> motor itself. The difference between the two measurements is the voltage
> drop inside the solenoid.  The total voltage drop should not be more the
> .2 volts. Doing the same test on the "ground " side of the circuit,
> between the negative post of the battery and the block of the engine
> should not result in a voltage drop of more than .1 volt.  The battery
> must be fully charged to do these tests.DO NOT CONNECT THE VOLTMETER
> BETWEEN THE BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL AND THE HEAVEY WIRE THAT GOES
> DIRECTLY INTO THE STARTER IF THE STARTER IS NOT ACTUALLY BEING ACTUATED
> AND IS CRANKING OR TRYING TO CRANK AND DO NOT LEAVE  IT CONNECTED AFTER
> STOPPING THE STARTER FROM CRANKING. THE VOLT METER WILL BLOW IF YOU DO. It
> must be in parallel.High voltage drops mean high resistance. High
> resistance ussually means bad connections.  Marelli starters are
> notoriously bad. It many be a bad starter.   Regards, Greg Solow
> 
>       -----Original Message-----
>       From:   Hooley, Tim T [SMTP:Tim.Hooley@gs.com]
>       Sent:   Saturday, October 31, 1998 7:49 AM
>       To:     'morgans@autox.team.net'
>       Subject:        Starting when hot.....
> 
>       Hello,
> 
>       I have had my 1986 Fiat-powered +4 for almost a year now and I am
> well and
>       truly in love....
> 
>       I am hoping that someone can help me to solve a small problem
> involving the
>       car being very difficult to start when hot - the starter motor seems
> to
>       become very lazy and turn very slowly, if at all - this seems to get
> worse
>       as the car gets hotter...
> 
>       I realize that this is quite a mundane problem but would really
> appreciate
>       any advice.
> 
>       Thanks.
> 
> 
>       Tim. 

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