There should be no welds on the lower or upper tubes of the "frame front" as
Morgan call it. The tube are brazed to the stamped, sheet metal portion of
the frame front that is actually bolted to the front of the chassis. Any
welding would indicate some previous repair work that has taken place.
Normally older Morgans tned to have different camber angles from side to
side on the order of about 1/2 degree due to manufacturing tolerances before
around 1985. 2 degrees also would indicate to me that there had been some
poorly completed repair work, probably of accident damage, some time in the
past. For the best cornering and street performance we recomend 0 camber.
The steering may be slighty heavier, but the car will "turn in" much better,
esspecially in low speed corners.
We also recomend reinforcing the lower tube of the "frame front" by
installing another tube inside of the tube that is there now. We use a 1/8
inch wall, DOM mild steel tube, drive it in, after making sure that the
lower tube is straight, and braze it in place through a 1/4 inch hole we
have drilled in the center of the lower tube.
Regards, Greg Solow
----- Original Message -----
From: John T. Blair <jblair@exis.net>
To: <morgans@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 02, 1999 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: Morgan decambering
> Hey gang. I received the following post from Jim Higerd this
> evening looking for info on the decambering mod. Since I haven't
> installed the mod on my car so I can't say much either way. I'm
> wondering what others have to say about it, and weither it is
> better for street use and or racing.
>
> I don't know if Jim is on the Morgan mailing list or not, so you
> might want to cc him at jhigerd@mkainc.com
>
> John
>
> ---------------------------
>
>
> At 12:02 PM 8/2/99 -0600, Jim Higerd wrote:
>
>
> >I was checking the alignment on my 1959 +4 and discovered one side was 0
> >camber and the other was -2 camber. I checked and found a broken weld on
> >the lower tube next to tesion rod connection on the side where the -2
> >camber wheel was. There does not appear to be any other damage - no
> >distorted or bent tube or twisted metal.
> >
> >In my process of fixing this, I am considering decambering the front end.
> >Should I try for a 0 camber or is it better to have a little positive
> >camber? The car will be used on the road in Colorado, not for racing. I
do
> >and will have radial tires. For now I am thinking of adding the decamber
> >style plate and setting it for 0 camber. If it is worth it I can make a
> >plate that is adjustable but I suspect others have found the ideal camber
> >setting for road trips and tire wear.
> >
> >Any comments you may have?
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >Jim Higerd
>
> --------------------
>
> John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
> Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
>
> 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1109)
> 71 Saab Sonett III (71500840) 75 Bricklin SV1 (0887) 77 Spitfire
>
> Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
>
>
>
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