Chuck,
If you would like to keep the "farm implement" theme going just grab
you cutting torch and blow it off ;-)
Unfortunately, it sounds like 16 inch Morgan wheels are getting a bit
thin on the ground so anything that may damage the wheel should probably
be avoided. With the brake backing plate in place you can't get to the
other end so devices such as Vice Grips won't work.
Here are some suggestions.
1. Penetrating oil- I like Kroil or PB Blaster. PB is usually at
NAPA while Kroil is mail order only, I believe. Repeated application
over a few days is a good place to start. The odds are you have already
done this.
2. A little heat may loosen things up but be careful around the wheel.
Heat the nut only then see what happens.
3. If you can get one on, a nut splitter may help. Wheels are usually
dished enough to eliminate this option.
4. Drilling the stud is probably your best option. If it tries to
turn have someone hold the lug nut with a box end wrench. Center punch
(a pointed tap works great for this and most of us have one lying
around) then start small and move up. As you get larger the heat and
the torque of drilling my break the stud loose.
5. I have successfully split nuts with a cold chisel with the chisel
parallel to the stud working toward the wheel. I have also ruined stuff
doing this including my thumb nail. It is a great way to work out
frustration though.
6. A Dremel type tool may be able to split the nut if you have
unlimited time and cutting disks. You could also use the Dremel to give
your cold chisel a place to start.
7. With a right-angle grinder you could slowly remove the nut/stud but
you will never get it all without damaging the wheel. Maybe you could
Dremel what was left.
8. A cutting torch will indeed solve the immediate problem in rapid
fashion. My grandfather could cut the whiskers off a cat with a torch
but I am a little less skilled. I guess it just matters where you put
yourself on the spectrum. You could always cut a chunk out of the
brake parts so you can get at the stud's head with a Vice Grips but I've
only know one or two farmers who would do this. Then again, if these
parts are cheap and readily available, why not?
Once it is off, I would suggest removing the brakes, installing the
wheel, and hitting that stud with a tack weld. The problem is probably
an enlarged hole in the hub and unless you replace the hub or glue
things together you will have the same problem some time in the future.
So, who's up for some barbecued cat?
Happy Holidays,
Bill
Who once ruined the weather strip opening a locked car only to find out
later that breaking the window would have been much cheaper.
>>> "Vandergraaf, Chuck" <vandergraaft@aecl.ca> 12/22/99 09:57AM >>>
I've got a relatively minor problem. I tried to remove one of the
rear
wheels of my +4. All but one of the nuts came off all right, but the
stud
that holds the last bolt is turning with the nut and appears to be
loose in
the brake drum. How do I free the nut from the stud?
Although the +4 is not running, I wanted to replace the inner tubes
because
they have developed slow leaks and one of the valve stems is shot. I
didn't
think that I would be able to find replacement inner tubes, but a
nearby
dealer actually carries 550x16 inner tubes "for farm equipment."
Thanks
Chuck Vandergraaf
'52 +4
Pinawa, MB
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