I sent this this morning but it did not appear to get through. If this
comes through twice I apologize and will blame it all on the internet
<grin>
Jeff Nelson
> ----------
> From: Nelson, Jeff - DTC
> Sent: Monday, February 22, 1999 10:03 AM
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Stovebolt/Engine Stand?
>
> Well, great minds must work in similar ways. I was pulling my 235 from
> the frame on Saturday. I also removed the tranny just fine, but when I
> saw that two of the bolts holding the bell housing to the block were
> behind the flywheel, I knew it was time to punt. I went back to my
> manuals and other documentation and sure enough, you DO need to remove
> the clutch and flywheel before removing the bell housing. The only
> reason I want the engine on the stand is for safe storage, clean up,
> repainting, and detailing (adding decals, etc.) while I'm refinishing
> the frame. Now, since my engine, clutch, and transmission were all
> rebuilt a short time ago (<1000 miles), I would rather not remove the
> clutch and flywheel if I don't have to (I have more than enough
> disassembled pieces in the shop as it is.) As I see it, if I want the
> engine on a stand, I have several options, but would like to get
> opinions from other members on these options or hear other options I
> haven't considered.
>
> Option 1: Bite the bullet, remove the clutch and flywheel, remove the
> bell housing, and mount the engine on the stand the way it is
> designed. Probably, the simplest and probably the way I will go.
>
> Option 2: Extend the top two engine stand mounts by welding on 7" of
> pipe on each one, run two long bolts through the top two holes of the
> bell housing, into the block, and attach the bottom two engine stand
> mounts to the top two bolt holes where the tranny bolts to the bell
> housing. I am concerned that the weight of the engine might bend the
> top bolts and maybe crack the thinner bell housing at the tranny
> attachment points.
>
> Option 3: Extend the length of the engine stand about 12". Weld a
> vertical piece to the front of the stand and bolt the front engine
> mount to that vertical piece. Attach the back part of the stand to the
> rear engine mounts.
>
> Any opinions on these options or any other options that might work for
> Paul and I?
>
> Thanks
> Jeff Nelson
> Paducah, KY
> 1953 3600
> ----------
> From: Hudson29@aol.com[SMTP:Hudson29@aol.com]
> Reply To: Hudson29@aol.com
> Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 9:12 PM
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: [oletrucks] Stovebolt/Engine Stand?
>
> With predictions of rain for Sunday (just in time to wipe out
> our local Model
> T club tour), I thought I would get the 235 that Dave Riffel brought
> me up on
> my engine stand and roll it into the shed. I got the trannie off no
> worries,
> but the bell housing was a different matter. The darned thing looks
> like it
> will only come off AFTER the clutch and flywheel have been removed
> from the
> bottom. Can this really be so? I wanted to run the darn thing on the
> stand,
> but it looks like this is not possible because of the antique 3 point
> mounting
> system. Any ideas? Please e-mail me directly as I am a digester and
> the next
> digest will not arrive until Saturday evening.
>
> Paul O'Neil, Ye Olde Stamp Maker
> 1951 Chevrolet 3600 Pickup Project, See it at:
> The Poor Man's Advanced Design Tech Tips Page
> http://home.earthlink.net/~conntest47/
> Fullerton, California USA
> Hudson29@aol.com
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
>
>
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