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[oletrucks] Re: Saw your truck!!

To: mkmiller@magnolia-net.com, oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [oletrucks] Re: Saw your truck!!
From: TORODRVR@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 09:58:39 EST
In a message dated 03/24/1999 5:44:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mkmiller@magnolia-net.com writes:

<< Thanks for the advice.  I was wondering if I keep the front stock and put a
 newer rear-end under it how will I get all of my rotors the same(5 lug or 6
 lug).  Did you change out the rear-end of your truck?  I have looked into
 changing out the IFS and have found it will be very expensive or have to be
 very precise work.  I would like to consider keeping the front suspension if
 I can get everything the same bolt pattern for my wheels.  Thanks again for
 your suggestion, I'm leaning on going that way now.  Matthew >>

I used a disc brake conversion that converted the bolt pattern to 4.75"
5-bolts, so the front ended up the same as the rear. When you get rid of the
torque-tube rearend, just make sure you get a rear with the same bolt circle
as your fronts. If you don't want to switch to front discs, I'd suggest a
55-59 GM pickup rear, but the gear ratio will likely be LOW. That could be
alright depending on what sort of powerplant you intend to use. With a 235 or
other six, the suggested rear will probably work, but with a V-8 (mine is a
305), the higher ratios (lower numerically) are more practical. Mine is a
2.73, which works, but is really too HIGH now that I've installed a 700R4. If
you use a non-overdrive, especially with something more powerful than my 305,
2.73 to 3.23 is a good range IMHO.
Feel free to ask more questions. There are numerous options, so do a lot of
checking and measuring (mainly width), and make sure to center the rearend in
the wheel wells (many poorly done conversions end up with the wheels too far
forward).

Mike Jensen
48 3100
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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