Just a couple other options I can through out. A AMX Pacer front clip will fit
if
you don't mind drilling 4 holes in your frame. This could be quite reasonable on
the price of a donor car. Gives you front discs and power steering but may give
you problems matching all four wheel patterns.
Car drums will fit to give you front 5 lug although since you don't care
about
keeping stock wheels I see no reason not to got to front discs. Again this can
be
done cheaper if you can find a mid seventies lead sled to get good rotors and
calipers from you can get a bracket and bearing kit along with a dual master
kit.
A 55-59 rear would be 3.90 ratio-not too highway friendly unless you are going
with overdrive.
Just some ideas to think over.
Grant 50 3100
TORODRVR@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 03/24/1999 5:44:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> mkmiller@magnolia-net.com writes:
>
> << Thanks for the advice. I was wondering if I keep the front stock and put a
> newer rear-end under it how will I get all of my rotors the same(5 lug or 6
> lug). Did you change out the rear-end of your truck? I have looked into
> changing out the IFS and have found it will be very expensive or have to be
> very precise work. I would like to consider keeping the front suspension if
> I can get everything the same bolt pattern for my wheels. Thanks again for
> your suggestion, I'm leaning on going that way now. Matthew >>
>
> I used a disc brake conversion that converted the bolt pattern to 4.75"
> 5-bolts, so the front ended up the same as the rear. When you get rid of the
> torque-tube rearend, just make sure you get a rear with the same bolt circle
> as your fronts. If you don't want to switch to front discs, I'd suggest a
> 55-59 GM pickup rear, but the gear ratio will likely be LOW. That could be
> alright depending on what sort of powerplant you intend to use. With a 235 or
> other six, the suggested rear will probably work, but with a V-8 (mine is a
> 305), the higher ratios (lower numerically) are more practical. Mine is a
> 2.73, which works, but is really too HIGH now that I've installed a 700R4. If
> you use a non-overdrive, especially with something more powerful than my 305,
> 2.73 to 3.23 is a good range IMHO.
> Feel free to ask more questions. There are numerous options, so do a lot of
> checking and measuring (mainly width), and make sure to center the rearend in
> the wheel wells (many poorly done conversions end up with the wheels too far
> forward).
>
> Mike Jensen
> 48 3100
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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