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RE: [oletrucks] Truck Wiring

To: "'Doug Pewterbaugh'" <dpewter@email.msn.com>,
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Truck Wiring
From: Tom Burt <tburt@hirose.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 10:17:28 -0700
My two cents worth:
If you use automotive grade wire (polyurethane jacketing), you need not 
worry about shorting problems.  As Wayne Osborne stated before, you 
shouldn't have any splices anywhere along the runs (unless where a branch 
is required).  The fewer splices, the fewer the chance for shorts and 
opens.  Crimp ends using terminals with plastic collars.  Use correct guage 
terminals.

NOTE: PO of my truck used a 12 ga. wire nut to splice the tailight wires. 
 Splice was right next to the under-frame gas tank.  Yikes!!!

Standard automotive split plastic covering is sufficient to protect against 
rock imact and snagging objects.  The key is to maintain a relatively tight 
bundle of wires when in large groups.  3M High Heat Cloth tape can be used 
to wrap the wire groups (electricians tape does not hold up under water and 
heat), then slip on the split covers. Tie strap the split covers as needed 
along the frame where necessary.
Water is not so much an issue as cuts and fraying.

Tom B. '57 Stepside 3200



-----Original Message-----
From:   Doug Pewterbaugh [SMTP:dpewter@email.msn.com]
Sent:   Thursday, July 08, 1999 9:25 AM
To:     Mike Auser; oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject:        Re: [oletrucks] Truck Wiring

If you can read the old manuals wiring diagrams, they have color codes on
the different circuits or look at someone's installation manual from a
Painless wiring kit (or similar) for GM products-they use standard GM 
wiring
color codes.  As far as the under frame covering, if you are using PVC
coated wire & have no splices in the run, I don't see anything wrong with
trapping water in the split type covering; shrink tubing is expensive,  &
usually in pre-cut lengths (3 ft or less, but may come in rolls) & if you
ever need to get to the wires (or one of the wires in the run) you'll have
to cut the shrink tubing (& then slide on new length from the end to 
repair,
this means disconnecting all devices in the harness in order to slide the
tubing on from one end-i.e. too much work!).

Regards,
Doug Pewterbaugh
dpewter@msn.com
Denton, TX
49 3104 216 5-Window
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Auser <auserm@hotmail.com>
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 08, 1999 10:46 AM
Subject: [oletrucks] Truck Wiring


>The next project on my '48 Chevy 1/2 ton is to rewire it.  I'm going to do
>it from scratch rather than buying a harness and am wondering how to best
>protect the wires running along the frame.  Most harnesses seem to be
>wrapped tightly in electrician's tape, but that seems tedious.  I was
>considering using rock guard tubing (ribbed plastic tubing that has a slit
>for inserting the wires),  but fear that it may trap water.  A fellow list
>member suggested using heat shrink tubing.  Suggestions?  I will be using
>modern wires (rather than cloth) and am wondering what I should use for
>color coding.  Is their a resource on the web that would detail this?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike Auser
>'48 Chevy 1/2 ton
>'52 Chevy 1/2 ton
>
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959



oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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