Remember, the IGNITION of a 12v truck (with points) actually is running on 6v
after it is started. Everything else is on 12v all the time. The reduction from
12v to 6v is so you don't toast the points. So, on many starters there is a
balast bypass so that when you start the truck the 12v is NOT reduced to 6v.
This gives you better starting capabilities with out running always running on
12v all the time. There is a 3rd post on starters that allow a bypass. If
yours has 2, then your mechanic is correct about the starter....it is a new
style. However, if you live in a very cold climate this may cause a problem in
the winter because you are trying to start with only 6v at the points.
Recommendation: If you aren't going to install an "old style" starter, then
disconnect the wire at the ballast (or distributor, I've forgotten which).
Don't attache it to anything.
I have the 3 post starter, but installed an HEI ignition, on which you run 12v
all the time so I don't need a bypass. Therefore I have no wire, but I do have
the post.
Jon Elerath
jelerath@us.ibm.com
"Border,Ryan" <rborder@fcxena.fc.hp.com> on 07/20/99 03:05:57 PM
Please respond to "Border,Ryan" <rborder@fcxena.fc.hp.com>
To: "'oletrucks@autox.team.net'" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
cc:
Subject: [oletrucks] 55 2nd short (for me) update.
An update for those following my saga:
A couple of weeks ago, I tried to get the truck running better. The more I
tinkered, the worse it got, and I finally succeeded in progressing to the
point where the truck wouldn't start. In disgust (I'm really not that bad
of a mechanic), I threw in the towel and called a guy specializing in GM
V8's, who came highly reccomended to me.
Towed the truck over (thanks AAA), where he:
o Pulled distributor to check bushings and such (was OK)
o Cleaned & lubricated mechanical advance weights
o Checked and adjusted vacuum advance
o Replaced points and condensor
o Verified TDC timing mark and static timed engine
o Checked coil
o replaced spark plugs (said mine were the worst fouled he
had *ever* seen- they didn't spark, they just smoked)
o Reconnected ballast resitor, and got the truck running.
After tinkering a bit with it, he:
o Pulled carb
o replaced float (it was sinking)
o replaced an internal spring (had the wrong one)
Put it together, got it running again, and then:
o Opened carb back up
o Replaced 2 rear main needles (too much enrichment at
open throttle, wrong needles for this altitude with my
air cleaner)
o reassembled everything, tested and did fine tuning.
All for $107. Amazing.
The truck is running great, and I've really been enjoying driving it around.
The new electicals are all working great- every component (even the fuel
gauge) appears to be functioning properly.
Quick question: I have a wire installed to bypass the ballast resistor under
starting. It runs from the coil side of the resistor down to the starter.
I have (what this mechanic described as) a "new style" starter, with only
two obvious connection points on it- a big one for the battery and
alternator hookup, and a small one for the starter solenoid input. I
initially hooked this wire up to the only other thing that looked like a
possible connection point- which (judging by the results: a totally toasted
ballast resistor) was probably grounded. For now, the starter end of the
wire is disconnected and tucked back into the harness. Is there some
"hidden" connection point for this wire I just don't see?
I'm a much happier camper :-). And it even looks like I might have found
transport for the frame I've been trying to get up here :-).
A very good truck week...
Ryan.
55'2nd 3100, Colorado USA.
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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