I had a body man tell me to drill an 1/8" hole right through the hinges
(hinge and backing plate) before removing to use later as for alignment.
When replacing the door just turn the bit around and use as drift pin to put
the door right back where it was! Provided your alignment is correct in the
Mike B. '56 8400 Wrecker :)
----- Original Message -----
To: <email@example.com>; <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Thursday, November 25, 1999 10:46 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Pullin' The Doors?
> I hope everybody had a rewarding and happy Thanksgiving, I certainly
> Since there is a couple of unplanned days ahead this weekend, it might
> be possible to sneak in a little work on the old AD. One of the projects
> to strip and repaint the interior surfaces of the doors.
> Last weekend, I pulled the old hardened and rotted weatherstrip off
> driver's door. It did not come cleanly and was hard to get at on the
> edge. Looking the job over, it seemed that the whole project would be
> simplified if the door was off the truck, and sitting on a couple of
> sawhorses where it's easy to get at.
> The trusty shop manual said basically -- remove bolt, remove door.
> Assembly is just the reverse, except that the bolts are kept slack until
> door is closed into the cab, at which point you just tighten them back up
> from inside.
> Is it really that easy? I intent to replace the latch and striker
> at the same time, does all of this go together easily?
> Paul O'Neil, Hudson29@aol.com
> 1951 Chevrolet 3600 Pickup Project, See it at:
> The Poor Man's Advanced Design Tech Tips Page
> Fullerton, California USA
> AEROMARK - Need Rubber Stamps or Signs? See:
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959