Hi Deve,
For really tight spaces, I recommend a sandblaster and baking soda. You can
use a $20 bucket blaster just fine. If you have a lot to do, but coarse
soda from a commercial chemical co in 50 lb bags, otherwise get boxes at the
grocery store. Suction blasting is slow, so don't plan on doing the whole
frame with it.
If it is really bad you may have to use stronger abrasives, but give the
soda a good try. You can blast soda with goggles and dustmask, whereas grit
requires a hood, and you'll be chewing it for a few days.
Of course, if you remove all the sheetmetal and running gear, you can rent a
commercial compressor and sandblaster, which can clean the whole frame in a
couple of hours. The grit destroys bearings, however, so the running gear
and front and rear suspensions must either be removed first or rebuilt
after.
Blasting is almost useless against grease, so rent a hot water pressure
sprayer and get the grease out first.
I use wire wheels and cups in my makita grinder. The wire wheel can reach a
lot of tight places. On flat surfaces, I prefer sanding disks.
For the tightest spaces, however, blasting is what you need.
Regards,
Grant S. gls@4link.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Deve Krehbiel <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
To: Old Chevy Truck List <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, December 12, 1999 5:48 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Tools for Rust Removal
>I am trying desperately to remove ALL the rust and dirt on the truck.. ALL
>of it. Every nook and cranny, around every nut, rivet, inside channels,
>around everything. I am sorta obsessed with renewing the old truck. Right
>now its up on stands and I have the frame under the bed (removed the bed)
>finished and am working on under the cab. I do not want to remove the cab,
>but I want it just as clean as if I did. Not ALMOST just as clean either. I
>WILL succeed! hehehe!
>
>I have a 3/8 variable speed drill with several wire brushes and a Dremel
>Tool with the ONLY three wire brushes that are available. Here is the major
>problem.......
>
>The Drill removes the bulk of the rust no problem, the Dremel removes the
>rest of it with pretty decent results so all should be great in lalaland..
>but its not because the Dremel brushes last about... oh.. 5 seconds! I NEED
>a solution for the close quarter work that doesnt cost $3 a brush and its
>gone before you get a small location done. I am wondering if there isnt
more
>detail brushes available for the Drill that would work. Would need a drill
>extension (havent seen any such thing anywhere) to get into the crevaces,
>and smaller brushes than the 1-1/2" circular concave ones that are common.
>
>Anyone have any ideas? If so, please give ideas on where to get the tools.
>Thanks!
>
>Deve Krehbiel
>Hesston, Kansas
>50 3100
>
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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