Hey Guys and Gals,
Since I got so many requests for the How-To, here goes. First let me
say that I did not mean to insult anyone who has used hog rings for
their covers. But it just didn't make any sense not to do it like the
factory, since it is actually easier, and just as cheap. I also do not
have any pictures of the new seat, but you can se my truck at
http://www.fortunecity.com/meltingpot/anderson/65/index.html
I have prepared an illustration of how to create seams and how to place
skirt panels. It is very difficult to describe just how to do this, so
the illustration is a must. It is about 38K in size. I will gladly
post it if the administrators of this list say it is OK. Otherwise, I
can send it to individuals as requested.
The seat cover itself is a really simple piece of work. The springs are
52-1/4 inches wide. With adding about 1 inch to this length to make
sure the seams are on the sides of the foam (as opposed to being sat on)
and another 1-1/2 inches for seam flaps, the springs are too wide to
work with the typical 54" wide vinyl, so plan on making length-wise
cuts. I can't say exactly how much to buy, as I bought remnants at a
discount, and never really figured it up.
The "skirt", the part of the cover which goes from the top of the seat
or back to the frame, needs to be 10" wide. There are three sections of
skirt for the seat and three for the back. The front section is 46",
and the two side/back (they wrap around and meet in the middle of the
back of the seat, or the bottom of the seat back) should be cut about
55" so you have plenty to work with. The 55" measurement should be
verified, since I just cut my pieces out of leftovers, and then trimmed
the ends as they came together in the back.
The seat/back section should be cut by laying the springs on the vinyl
and tracing around them with a marker. Hold the marker such that it
adds close to 1/2" to the overall outline. The springs will not be
perfectly straight along the long measurements, so use a straight-edge
to straighten out these lines. This is the line that you will sew on.
Make another outline 3/4" from the original. This is the line you will
cut on. If you do everything right you will have a 3/4" flap (see
illustration) extending past the seam.
First sew the sections of skirt together, end-to-end as shown in the
illustration. The three pieces combine into one long 10" wide piece
with decorative seams to be seen in the front of the seat, or the top of
the back The shorter piece is not as wide as the seat, so its seams are
inset from the corners a few inches on either side. The two remaining
ends are NOT to be sewn together at this time. To attach the skirt to
the seat/back I stapled it first (I am SURE this is not the way a pro
would do it, it was just an easy way for me) with a small paper
stapler. This way you can position the front panel with its seams
evenly spaced from the corners of the top/back, and it won't slip or
stretch. I put a staple about every three inches and about 1/4" from
the edge (remember you should be actually sewing about 3/4" from the
edge). Just lay the skirt on the top/back face to face, line up the
edges, and start stapling. I did not carry the staples around the
corners, just along the front to keep my alignment. The corners are the
hard part because they are round, and the skirt is a straight piece of
material. You have to get rough with it sometimes (this is where
practice makes perfect seams) but you can get it to work, just go a
little at a time. The skirt will buckle, and this is actually what you
want. You might want to make a removable mark on the vinyl at the
center of the backside (or bottom if referring to seat back). This is
so you know to stop sewing when you get to that point. This where I
cheated a little for the sake of ease. I sewed around the seat in
opposite directions starting from the front. When I got around to the
back, I just let the skirt overlap itself, and trimmed it to fit. Then
I just sewed the skirt to itself across the 10" dimension for added
strength. Normally a nice seam is made in the skirt here, but this
requires more precision than I was capable of, and this seam is not seen
when the seat is installed. The same goes for the back. When you are
done, and unfold everything the skirt should hang at a 90 degree angle
to the top/back. Be sure and remove the staples.
At this point you could actually install the new cover, but it would not
look "factory". To give it this look you must fold the flap of material
that is leftover from the seam and top stitch it. The illustration
makes this far easier to understand. This decorative seam also
reinforces the whole thing.
Installation of the cover:
If you can get your foam cut for you by a pro, by all means do it this
way. Explain that straight lines are imperative, as the best sewing in
the world will be screwed up by crooked foam. If you are going to cut
it yourself, the best bet is to go to the thrift store and buy an
electric carving knife. They will cut foam like butter, especially if
you spray a little Pam on the blades first. For the seat, I used 2"
foam of the higher quality. The higher quality foam is usually some
other color than blonde. Mine is purple, and is firmer than the blonde
stuff. The seller told me it is what the pro's use, and will last
longer. I used 1" on the back. I did find a use for the hog rings. I
used them to hold a piece of carpet to the springs as a backing for the
foam (pile side up). I got my carpet from the dumpster behind the
carpet store. It was brand new carpet left-over from an installtion.
It is imperative that you put something in-between the foam and the
springs as they will cut into the foam. I just cut the carpet about 2"
bigger than the springs and force formed it around the edge wire. There
are some wire struts that you can hog ring it to. It also keeps the
edge wire of the springs from cutting your vinyl and makes the seat much
firmer. Do the same for the back. Place the foam on top of the carpet,
then slip the cover on. I lined up the front and side seams first. I
figured if the back seam was not exactly perfectly aligned, no one would
know. I set the seat on my bench with the front edge hanging out in
space. I was then able to mash the clips (see illustration) into the
channel while verifying the the front seam was even. The seams should
not be seen from the top of the seat (you should not sit on them). This
is why you make the top a little bigger than the actual dimensions of
the springs. Place clips as often as you can along the front edge of
the seat (in between each structural seat brace). I used some cheap
pliers whose jaws I ground smooth with my bench grinder to pinch them
into the channel.
This is important! To keep from ripping the vinyl as you squeeze the
clips into the channel, do not attempt to stretch the vinyl with the
clip. Make sure that there is sufficient vinyl poked into the channel
before applying the clip. With the front clipped into place, I flipped
the seat upside-down and began gently stretching it along the back
side. This is where you are most likely to puncture the vinyl with a
clip. I got mine nice and tight, although I did have to re-do a couple
of clips as I went. The bottom skirt will just fit. The back will have
a little extra seeing as you only use 1" foam.
I think this setup leaves you with a little taller seat, as I found it a
somewhat difficult to wedge the seat bottom under the back. Use a
little furniture polish on the surface of the vinyl, and this will go
much easier. The seat is also very flat, which I believe differs from a
factory seat, in that they have a little hump in them (I think - I have
never actually seen a factory seat in good condition).
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Dave Thomas,
'54 3100
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