each to their own i guess. I've built some pretty nice buildings. the colored
siding comes in allot of different colors and you could even go with vinal
siding if
you want it to look like a home.. you could use ply wood on the roof i guess
if you
were worried about snow load. and i wonder about all these dumbes in the
mountains
that use metal roof systems.... all their houses must be full of snow by the
winters end? ( reason to use metal is the snow slides off of it much easier)
lol..
not sure where your going with all this. the trusses take the load.... im
not one
to say a persons full of sh*t but a cubic yard of concrete here is a bout
$140.
and i can get 10 yards of gravel for that???? Fred Flintstone a friend of
yours?
Good luck. as i said in my previous email. each to their own... if you want
to go
the way your going great.. i only have to try to keep my wife happy. and im
in no
way trying to make you happy... it seems
lol
Bruce
1949 chev 1/2 ton
ADvent@thuntek.net wrote:
> One thing to consider when thinking about metal buildings is the snow load. In
> Ok. City, there is not a snow problem. I used to live in Enid, north of Yukon
>90
> miles which is just west of Ok. City and it never did snow that much. Metal
>may
> just be fine. i live in snow country where 16 feet of snow in one winter is
>not
> uncommon. Those metal buildings cannot take that kind of snow. What do you
>think
> would happen if you got a 3 foot wet snow and all that weight is pressing down
> on the roof? besides metal buildings look like a converted gas station. My
>shop
> I am building is a 24X24X12 feet with 5/12 pitch and I am considering scissor
> trusses for even more clearance in the middle. My walls will be 2X6's and 16"
>on
> center with T-111 siding. It will look very nice and be strong with about a 60
> pound snow load. You could park a couple pickups on the roof and not worry.
>And
> 5/8 plywood or OSB for roof sheathing will make a roof that will last longer
> than I will. My footing is 18" wide by 18" deep with a 6" stem wall from a
>foot
> in the back to 3 feet high in the front. Next week, I hope to pout the stem
> wall, the forms are all ready. The slab will be 4" with the new fiber instead
>of
> wire and along the walls the slab will be thicker, maybe about 18" so I can
> mount a lift inside. i can't do the heavy shovel work myself, so I would
>rather
> pay more for concrete and fill with that. It will increase my concrete cost
> about a hundred bucks, much less than the labor to fill with dirt and the
> compacting time. Concrete is cheap. Why fill with dirt and pay someone to do
>it
> when you can pour that concrete in a hour or so? All in all, it is cheaper. I
> used 7½ yards for my footings, but I didn't have a lot of labor to pay. My
> footings cost me about $350 with payed labor from my neighbors. Any comments?
>
> Deve Krehbiel wrote:
>
> > For my 6600 sq ft metal building, I went with BC Steel Buildings out of
> > Oklahoma City. The size you want wont be the project mine was so I would
> > consider a metal structure for durability. Besides, when you price lumber
> > you will see why everyone is going with steel. Have a professional pour the
> > concrete complete with stud bolts per the really nice blueprints you get
> > with your building, and you are off and running. I found borrowing a
> > forklift to be a real lifesaver. Its an ackward job to do yourself since you
> > need to put 4" insulation between the sheets of metal, but I devised a few
> > tools to hold things in place. Took me about 1-1/2 months to complete. My
> > arms were quite sore after driving a few thousand of those self tapping
> > screws, but it was more than worth it!
> >
> > When you are ready to partition the inside, I will share with you how to
> > turn discarded pallets (the ones that use 2x4's) into very strong 2x4 stud
> > walls by joining the ends (for the required length) using a table mounted
> > router, a finger joint bit, and a home-made pressing table to compress the
> > joints. That is if you have a source for pallets. I have made over 2000
> > studs and partitioned my building with them. It was an investment in time,
> > but the lumber was free as opposed to somewhere around $3.00 a stud. The end
> > result is straighter and stronger than the pine studs you can buy nowadays
> > cut outta new trees (since there is nothing else left).
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Wayne Pratt" <wpratt@ipa.net>
> > To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2000 9:08 AM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] shop buildings
> >
> > > Hey Guys,
> > > Several weeks ago there was some comment on the list about building
> > > shops. I am looking at several options while trying to keep the cost to
> > > some reasonable limit.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any experience with the arch type buildings such as
> > > Steelmaster, or the truss type such as Miracle Truss? I am also thinking
> > > about doing a traditional stick built structure.
> > >
> > > I am thinking about a 20X36 building with 10 ft. walls, as the home for
> > > my 53AD 3100 retirement project. Everything else will just sit outside
> > > or under the carport
> > >
> > > Wayne Pratt
> > > 53 3100
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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