Like I said earlier, hydraulic lifters need to be adjusted still for the initial
fire up. If you do it right that's it for the life of the motor. If you need to
adjust again, because of something not related to the first adjustment, Its a
mechanical failure happening and its time for a new cam and or lifter(s). In
real life at a shop, I would never replace just one lifter. It would get a new
cam and lifters. If I can't do it the correct way and the way to prevent a
comeback, I won't do the work. I'll turn the job down. You might have a few more
bad lifters, but they haven't cause symptoms, yet, but might later on down the
road. No pun intended. I would at least measure the cam lobe to see if that's
where the problem is. If the lift is not up to specs, the lobe is worn and a new
lifter or adjustment will not fix your problem. At any rate, properly adjusted
hydraulic lifters are something you can just forget about until its time to
rebuild it, again. When I was younger, I had a 65 Chevy three-quarter ton pickup
with a 283. The lifters clattered a little, so I got out my tools and did an
adjustment. It was ok for a few miles and then it started to run differently. I
pulled the rocker arm cover off and I had it so tight that one push rod was bent
and it poked a hole right through the rockers. I am laughing just thinking about
it. I was surprised. I did this with it running, because learned that some other
dumb kid. If my car's lifters were adjusted this way, I would be very mad. I
don't care how careful a person is, myself included, one cannot adjust a running
engine without getting some oil where you don't want it. Ok, I'll stop. BTW, I
don't like solid lifter cams, I'm too lazy for that.
New Mexico Jim
"Lonnie L. Dickey" wrote:
> HhhhMmmmm?
>
> You may have lost some good mechanics. I have set lifters both
> cold/still and hot/running. I am not sure which is 'best'. I have had
> god results both ways. The cold/still technique was a response to
> all of us who had seen enough hot oil squirting at us.
>
> I could argue either method. I do like the cold/still for the obvious
> reasons of less burns and virtually no mess. However I might also
> point out that a hot/running set will find a lifter (mostly hydrolic)
> which is not operating properly. You can't 'see' this during a cold/
> still(dry) process.
>
> I would agree with a recommendation to set the engine while it
> is NOT running. I'd reserve the hot/running method for finding the
> 'bad' lifter and for the solid lifter cams.
>
> Lonnie
> PS Get a rocker oil clip set if you need to set the engine while running.
> It can virtually eliminate the mess. I also use a mechanic's
> stethoscope for the finer adjustments and noisy cars (loud mufflers
> and hot rods).
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ADvent@thuntek.net>
> To: Thomas M OBrien <tmobrien@juno.com>
> Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>; <60schevy@topica.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 9:47 AM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Followup: valve adjust
>
> > adjusting the hydraulic lifters with the engine running is a mickey mouse
> > operation, dont do it. do like the factory says to do it, after all, they
> > spend more money on research than most of us will ever see. you will get a
> > better adjustment and smoother running engine by doing it with the engine
> > off. i hope i dont step on anyones toes here. when i had my auto shop, i
> > would run off any mechanic who would adjust hydraulic valves with a
> running
> > motor. nm jim
> >
> > Thomas M OBrien wrote:
> >
> > > Just got back from taking the "old girl" out for a test drive. Printed
> > > out several messages and did some more research.
> > >
> > > I must have adjusted them too much...Ended up adjusting them from #1
> TDC,
> > > adjust #1 intake and exhaust, then rotated engine 90 degrees and
> adjusted
> > > #8s and so on in firing order. Makes sense...I will still need to find
> > > some old valve covers at a swap meet to cut open (the only ones I have
> > > the "Chevrolet" script on them) to adjust valves with engine running.
> It
> > > still makes a ticking noise under load...
> > >
> > > Thanks for all the help.
> > >
> > > Tom O. (Oregon)
> > > 60 Apache K20, etc.
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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