I would definitely include replacing the valve seals, whatever else you do.
Regards,
Doug Pewterbaugh
dpewter@msn.com
Denton, TX
49 3104 216 5-window
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Steinmetz <rstein@sssnet.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 10:11 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Cylinder head disassembly
> After leaving my engine on a stand for over five years, I finally
> dropped it back into the frame last weekend. The freshly-painted engine
> looked very good sitting back at home in the freshly painted frame.
> Unfortunately, the engine was seized! I took the head off, sprayed all
the
> pistons with PB Blaster, and let it soak for a few minutes. After gently
> tapping each cylinder with a block of wood and a hammer, the engine turned
> freely. At this point, it was apparent that the cylinder head could stand
> to be cleaned up a bit. I decided to call it a day, and bring the head
home
> with me to rebuild.
> I just started disassembling the cylinder head tonight. I'm working
> with a 228 GMC head. All of the intake valves came right out using a
valve
> spring compressor tool. NONE of the exhaust valves would compress using
the
> same tool. Are the exhaust valves held in with something different than
the
> intake setup?
> I left my shop manual in my garage where the truck is. The truck is
an
> hour away. Can anyone explain the proper way to disassemble the exhaust
> valves?
> While I have the head apart for cleaning, should I be considering
> porting and polishing / gasket matching / milling the head?
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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