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Re: [oletrucks] DA Sanders & Update

To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] DA Sanders & Update
From: Don Hartman <dhartman@sunvalley.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 17:52:55 -0700
Easy Deve-

I don't want to open a HUGE can of worms on the list here... but let's
remember one thing.  In order to stop rust, it must be inhibited in one
form or another.  Bare metal will rust, no matter how much you try to keep
it from doing so.  As a matter of fact, you know the green primer that's
used on aircraft parts and other precious metals?  It's applied after a
'rust-starting' process has been applied, thereby stopping or 'inhibiting'
rust in it's current stage.  (I'm sure this'll get the attention of quite a
few members...)  So... to properly prepare your stuff for a
'total-rust-free' condition, one would begin a 'rust' process.  Basically,
stopping the molecular change via oxidation of the alloys and or  structure
of the metal.  Rust is not the enemy, rather a starting point to the end.
Regular ole auto primer, (and yes, even todays polys and resins) is merely
a protective coating to keep the other elements (O2, H2O, etc) away from
the metal.  To do the job right, one would start the rust process, then
inhibit, then prep for finish.  But, we're talking trucks here... not F-14
Tomcats... (The ultimate air-superiority aircraft of the world, for us
older guys, and I wont argue that point either).

Maybe the previous post regarding the use of Muriatic acid will help you
with your rust concerns, but spray quickly...  (I wouldn't do it)...

In closing, consider one thought... no matter your means of ridding paint/
rust/coverings, etc, mere exposure to AIR will cause your components to
rust.  Believe it.  If you could see it under a powerful microscope, you
would probably lose sleep.

Good Luck!
Don
'55 2nd DeLuxe
'59 GMC Burb

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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