Sorry if you took off the filler to gain access. I was just out looking at my
this won't help. I do seem to remember moving the light past the holes and
get them in from behind but the isn't much room behind the grill to get your
past the vertical brace.
Grant Galbraith wrote:
> The parking lights bolts often break. I might help to remove the filler
> the grill and radiator and reach from behind. My memory fails me too often,
> think I put in the lights from the back. Do remember they were impossible to
> in one way and slid right in another. Don't worry about wires breaking off at
> sockets if you are putting turn signals in you will need new dual filament
> sockets anyhow.
> The wire harness crosses over the top of the radiator support, on the front
> side held by metal strap type retainers.
> I've had sick sounding horns when I ran 12 volts to them. I have made
> improvements by taking apart and making adjustments on the length of the
> the vibrating part. You have nothing to lose.
> 50 Chevy 3100
> 52 GMC 150
> Spectatin@aol.com wrote:
> > Hi All,
> > We are starting to re-wire and have a couple of questions. What's the best
> > way to remove the parking lights? My husband is having a time trying to get
> > grip on the two nuts holding them in and before he rips them out I thought
> > I'd better ask for help! One of the lights will be usable but the other is
> > rusted and has had the wire ripped out from the socket. We'd like to make
> > these turn signals. Next question is what is the correct path for the
> > between the two headlights, right now its kinda laying behind the fan in
> > front of the engine. And lastly, (for now) our horn sounds like a sick,
> > angry duck on steroids. Loud but ugly. What can we do to fix it, or does
> > have to be replaced? Thanks in advance.
> > The Bells in MI (49 3100)
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959