In a message dated 01/20/2001 7:56:32 AM Mountain Standard Time,
Bsanderson@new.rr.com writes:
<< Well to start off I would like to know about your chassis/suspension and
your drivetrain. I am looking at getting a Mustang II front end and using
the original frame. I have heard of people using older (late 70's) car
frames, with minor adjustments. For suspension, I havent really decided.
For the drivetrain I was thinking of running a Chevy 350 V-8 and I am
undecided on the tranny. I do know that I want to run an automatic. The
rearend I would like to run is a Ford 9 inch.
Whatever information, including price estimates, problems that you ran
into would be helpful. I would like pictures of the exterior, interior and
engine compartment. Thank you for your help. >>
chassis/suspension / original chassis with new spring main leaves and all
new bushings, etc. I rebuilt each spring with teflon material between each
leaf. I added a front sway bar and power steering. The rearend is from an '84
Pontiac Parisienne, and I used a kit from Butch's Rod Shop to center the
wheels in the fenders. Since my truck is a '48, it had the knee action
shocks, so I installed shock mounts and shocks for a '50 or later.
your drivetrain / 350/700R4 installed using the standard mount crossmembers
available practically anywhere. If you run a Mustang II frontend, you won't
be able to use the crossmember front mount. My distributor is too close to
the firewall for me to run an HEI, but I'm happy with the standard points
distributor. The engine could have been mounted further foreward, but I
wanted the center of balance to be as far back as I could get it. I also
could cut an opening for the HEI and build a "tent" from sheetmetal and weld
it in place. I won't be doing that, though. I put 30,000 miles on the used
305 from the Pontiac with the standard distributor(Delco window type, not
from the Pontiac) and was quite satisfied with it. I'm using the original
radiator that I had re-cored before the engine swap. Since the V-8 runs
hotter and needs a pressure cap, I have a little trouble with leaks at the
seams. More nuisance than true problem. If I hadn't already spent the money
on the original, I'd have bought a "Desert Cooler" with built-in transmission
cooler. I rebuilt the 700R4 and am using a computer-eliminator kit similar to
the one available from Painless Wiring. I love the overdrive and can cruise
at any legal speed all day long, even with the 3.73 gears that I installed.
The driveshaft from the Pontiac was rebuilt and shortened by a company in
Greeley CO. Not cheap, but worth it. I'm using a GM tilt column with a column
shifter. I bought the fancy linkage from Kugel, but now that I'm more
experienced, I would have built something myself using the linkage from the
car. I installed a 403 Olds and Turbo 350 and tilt column from a '78
Bonneville in a '62 pickup and didn't have to buy any mounts or adapters. I
even built a sheetmetal cover for the bottom of the column.
I am looking at getting a Mustang II front end and using the original frame.
/ If I was building another AD truck, I'd go this route. I just have too
much invested in my current setup to switch. Subframing would be my second
choice, although it's a really big job that could be easily botched.
For the drivetrain I was thinking of running a Chevy 350 V-8 and I am
undecided on the tranny. / Best choice there is. I built my 350 using cast,
flat-top pistons and 76cc stock heads. I didn't measure the C.R., but I
estimate about 9-1. I've been running 85 octane so far in this winter weather
and high altitude with no problems. My camshaft is a Speed-Pro with 204/214
duration. This grind is available in many different brands, and I installed
it 3 degrees advanced. My goal was a torquey engine with the guts to climb
most hills in high gear. The 305 wouldn't do it, but this 350 will. Get a
good 700R4, and you'll be very happy. Alternatively, just use a TH350 and
gear accordingly. My original gears were 2.73, and they would have been fine
with a 350/TH350 combo.
The rearend I would like to run is a Ford 9 inch. / Just make sure you
measure the rearend and don't end up needing custom-offset wheels to keep the
inside of the tires from rubbing the bed. I'm running 255/70R15's on 8-inch
wheels, and there's no room for error. I'm thinking of making some mini-tubs
from trailer fenders in the event that I decide to lower the truck. The front
would be lowered first, though, with mono-leaves.
Whatever information, including price estimates, problems that you ran into
would be helpful. I would like pictures of the exterior, interior and engine
compartment. Thank you for your help. / I spent about $10,000 total over
the four years I've owned the truck. I have most of the prices entered in my
computer database, so just tell me what prices you need.
I'll have to deal with the pictures later. I'll probably set them up on a
viewing site and give you the link to see them.
Good luck! I'd love to be involved in helping you build your truck and would
do what I could physically if you lived within 50 miles.
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