True for sure on the whole can turning into a big block of waste. But if you
are just painting clean sandblasted metal it is possible to use it at more
than
one sitting. The one thing I forgot to mention is when re sealing the lid of
the can,
make sure you take a piece of saran wrap or other kind of platic and put it
between the lid and the can. Other wise the lid will actually bond to the
can!!
Amazing stuff, just an example of how awesome this stuff is, I don't know why
you would consider using anything else.
Jeff Cerniglia
1959 GMC Fleetside
1954 Dodge M37
----- Original Message -----
From: dpewter
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2001 1:27 PM
To: Jeffrey cerniglia; john j tonyes; old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Cc: oletrucks
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Re: [old-chevy-truck] Rust converter
I used Extend years ago to do my frame (wish POR 15 existed then!). It
doesn't bond to the metal (rusted metal as stated) near as good as POR 15.
It has a tendency to peel off once scratched through (& THAT isn't hard to
do). Also, as an aside, on any of these paints, don't apply from the main
can (unless you intend to use the whole can in one setting); the can will
"kick off" with the introduction of the rust & you'll have nothing more than
a big HARD block of waste.
Regards,
Doug Pewterbaugh
dpewter@msn.com
Denton, TX
49 3104 216 5-window
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey cerniglia" <jcerniglia@msn.com>
To: "john j tonyes" <flfox1@juno.com>; <old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2001 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Re: [old-chevy-truck] Rust converter
> $27 a quart?? and you say Por15 is too expensive?? Por15 is the best
> stuff you will ever find for rust preventative, I know I have done my
whole
> frame with it and holds like nails! They have a website por15.com give
them
> a try as
> I am sure the shipping isn't that bad. also your local automotive paint
> supplier can
> most likley get it for you. If you want a finish that you wont have to
worry
> about
> rusting again, and that is what you want on your frame, Por15 is the one
to
> use.
>
> Jeff Cerniglia
> 1959 GMC Fleetside
> 1954 Dodge M37
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: john j tonyes
> Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2001 9:38 AM
> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> Cc: oletrucks@autox.team.net; old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [oletrucks] Re: [old-chevy-truck] Rust converter
>
> G.L.
> From one Hoosier to another. I am in Fl. and if you set something set
> overnight, after removing the paint, it rust. Try OSPHO That is what a
> lot of us use in Fl. You can buy it at Home Depot cheaper than any place
> else. Spray it on very lightly with a spray gun. If you decide to use
> it, let me know and I will tell you how I apply it. Very simple.
>
> John T
>
> On Sat, 30 Jun 2001 23:45:23 -0500 "Gary L Perry" <glperry@fwi.com>
> writes:
> I have old truck frames that I'm finding too expensive to have blasted. I
> have them cleaned up and scraped off the grease and used engine cleaner
> to kill the oil/grease film on certain places. In the past I have just
> used my angle grinder with a knot brush in it and sandpaper to clean up
> the frames and just painted over them with primer and paint. It does
> start rusting thru after awhile of using truck on roads all year. I have
> heard of POR15, didn't like the price and no stores have it. I did find a
> product by Mar-hyde called One Step rust converter #3513. It's watery and
> looks like milk. I have used other easy to find products that looked the
> same, but were no good if they got wet. They needed painting over to stay
> on and could wash away with water if not painted. Extend was it's name.
> This does not say you have to paint it, but does say you can paint it
> after 12 hrs. It does need rust to work, not reccommended for clean
> metal. It cost my $27 for this little qt. Anyone ever see this cheaper?
> The Auto store I bought it at is never cheap, but have best counter guys.
> It goes on like water, so goes quite far, but I feel I may need more to
> do frame. I'm trying to get my blaster working to blast frame, not having
> much luck with it. If I do blast, I will just prime and paint normally. I
> have done the x-over that I am putting in from another frame and it
> turned black right away. I will check tommorrow and see how it looks on
> that part. I got it on my hands and it did stick there quite well. Nuff
> said!
>
> G. L. Perry
> Huntington, IN 46750
> 50 Chevy COE (project)
> 55 GMC COE (project)
> 54 Chevy 2-ton (driver)
> MM Jet Star 3 (tractor)
>
> Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>
> 50 Chevy PU ?
> 52 Chevy PU 5 window mine
> 54 Chevy PU Hers
> 27 T Roadster
> 49 Ply, Lakeland, Fl
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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