Always use a new lock nut for final assy. with loctite.
> [Original Message]
> From: A.B. <bigfred@unm.edu>
> To: Mike Baggese <passnb4u@earthlink.net>
> Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>; Wayne Osborne <wayne@chevytrucks.org>
> Date: 1/22/02 11:15:28 AM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] pinion flage nut question.
>
> Kewl!!!
> That is what I was looking for. I couldn't find that 200 ft-lb spec
> anywhere in my book!
> One more for you guys who have done this before... Do you always use a new
> nut, or do you just go with the loc-tite on the old nut?
> -alfie
>
> On Tue, 22 Jan 2002, Mike Baggese wrote:
>
> > OKay,
> >
> > I see where you're coming from.
> >
> > I just looked in my '58 shop manual. I assume you're just replaceing
the
> > seal/flange? What they want you do is (with axles and ring gear intact,
> > brakes backed off) is to first measure the preload required to run the
> > whole sha-bang.
> >
> > This becomes your reference point.
> >
> > Say you have the rear in the air, brakes backed off and you measure
> > 25inch-lbs of rotational forces to spin everything.
> >
> > Mark that number dowon.
> >
> > Now remove the pinion nut, replace what's needed, and install the large
> > pinion nut to 200ft/lbs and stop.
> >
> > Check the rotational torque and compare to the reading you wrote down.
> > Tighten/loosen as needed to maintain the original in/lb reading.
> >
> > Keep in mind that the pinion nut torque spec is 200-240ft/lbs.
> >
> > See the end of the rearend section for specifications.
> >
> >
> > --- passnb4u@earthlink.net
> > --- EarthLink: The #1 provider of the Real Internet.
> >
> >
> >
--- Mike
--- passnb4u@earthlink.net
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