If you have any concerns abt overheating, I'd have the engine back flushed.
Any decent garage should be able to do this for you. You also used to be
able to buy a kit put out by Prestone that lets you do it yourself. It
consisted of a fitting to go into your heater hose so you can flush the old
coolant out. Then I used to put fresh water with a radiator cleaner sold by
Prestone and other sources, run the engine the suggested time, then flush
the cooling system until ALL of the cleaner is gone. I used to take off the
bottom radiator hose to make sure everything drained. I think you have to
fill and drain the system a couple of times. Then put in a 50/50 mix of
anti-freeze and water. The motor pool of the state entity I used to work at
used distilled water, but if your system is already filled with minerals,
that won't help much. But it definitely is a good idea if you have a newly
cleaned (read rebuilt) engine. Also keep in mind that with a 50/50 mixture
of coolant (or whatever is called for on your engine) and a pressurized
system, the coolant will NOT boil at 212 degrees. You can find a table ,
maybe on the anti-freeze jug, that tells you what the boiling temperature is
with the proper mix and 7 PSI pressurized system. I'm not sure abt the
do-it-yourself cooling system cleaners. I haven't done my own for the last
several years. If you're concerned abt scale (mineral) buildup, and you
garage says "Don't worry, you don't need distilled water in the system",
keep in mind that it's not HIS system. It may be too much trouble for him to
put in distilled water. Bob K in PHX
----- Original Message -----
From: "J Forbes" <jforbes2@mindspring.com>
To: "Old Trucks List" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] 235 wisdom
> > Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 22:55:44 -0700
> > From: mark <ccpanel@jps.net>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] 235 wisdom
> >
> > VEHICLE- all stock 1TON 235/4spd 1955TF chevy camper
> >
> > - -what do i do to keep it cool,
>
> Get the radiator fixed? It could be well plugged up. The block is also
> probably well plugged up, but getting it cleaned out usually means
> pulling the engine apart...or at least popping out the freeze plugs you
> can get to and doing some serious poking and scrubbing inside the water
> jackets. Also, note that the gage will probably indicate not much over
> 212 degrees at full hot, which is not really that hot compared to modern
> engines. but if it's boiling over, you need to do some work to get it
> cooling better! Of course, check the easy things like making sure the
> lower hose has a spring in it so it does not collapse; make sure the
> water pump impeller is not loose or corroded away; make sure the fan is
> on correctly and not backwards; look down in the radiator as best you
> can and see if it's full of rusty mud; check that the thermostat is
> working, you should be ok with a 180 degree stat; make sure the radiator
> cap seals and holds pressure, but NOT more than about 7 psi or the tanks
> will blow up!
>
> > - - what ideas to replace/repair the stock type oil filter ass. im
thinking a
> > remote fram spin-on type. OR where do you get filters?
>
> Don't know about getting filters, I expect there are sources such as the
> old truck parts places, or perhaps even NAPA. The spin on filters are
> designed for full flow oiling, which the 235 is not set up for, you'd
> need to reduce the huge fittings on the Fram filter adapter down to the
> tiny 1/8" pipe fittings used on the engine. The original 235 filter is
> a bypass type, meaning it filters just a little bit of the oil and sends
> the filtered oil back to the pan; the bearings and stuff get straight
> unfiltered oil! Things have changed since then.
>
> > - -what fan belt size for stock water pump/crank but modern alt? i ended
up
> > with a 15405 but its just a tad long but any shorter would be real hard
to
> > put on...
>
> You may need to do some welding to extend the adjusting bracket? Or
> perhaps move the lower pivot away from the block some.
>
> > - -what ideas to fix/check the stock turn signal column switch?
>
> A good understanding of how they work would help, I've explained it in
> the past, you might want to go to chevytrucks.org and search the
> archives.
>
> > - -these are stock 12V right?
>
> Yes.
>
> > - -can anyone scan/send me a reprint of the stock wiring schematic?
>
> Maybe...email me if no one else comes thru with one.
>
> > THANK YOU!! my main expierience is with AD and never with a stock
> > runner.... always new wires and new motor-thiis is fun and a good
learning
> > expierience...
> > mark
>
>
> Jim F
> 59s in AZ
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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