OK, why would we want to go to Branson? I imagine you are referring to the
Hot August Night car show? If so, I went last year, not again. Very few
trucks, I remember there only being one. Also charged for parking, and that
traffic!!
Brian
>From: "Leslie Kester" <dlkester@cox-internet.com>
>Reply-To: "Leslie Kester" <dlkester@cox-internet.com>
>To: "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>, "_Oletrucks"
><oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Pulling/Installing 235
>Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 20:35:20 -0700
>
>is any one out there going to Branson Mo.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Rob J.
>Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 8:42 AM
>To: _Oletrucks
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pulling/Installing 235
>
>
>I decided I'm going to try it with just the radiator, radiator support and
>front grille top cover removed...but not the grille bars themself (although
>I did remove the top bar since it is separate. I'll let you know what
>happens. Haven't decided if the hood will come off or not, but since I
>pulled the tranny separately, maybe it can stay in place?
>
>Rob
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jack Halton" <safesix@earthlink.net>
>To: "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
>Cc: <old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>; "_Oletrucks"
><oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 12:03 PM
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pulling/Installing 235
>
>
> > Rob,
> >
> > You can remove the sheet metal and core support if you like, but it's
>not
> > totally necessary. With an engine hoist and leveler attachment, you can
> > "finesse" the engine and trans out (or in) by tilting it and raising it
>is
> > stages. I've done this just by removing the grill and radiator, even
>with
>the
> > hood and "doghouse" still in place. This with a Saginaw 4-speed
>attached,
>but
> > shifter removed - if your four speed doesn't protrude above the floor
>level,
> > you should be OK.
> >
> > As for attachment points, take a couple of old head bolts, or anything
>with
> > the same thread, and weld on some lifting hooks. You can use them on
>both
>the
> > old engine and then to put it back in. Then just put the correct ones in
>and
> > re-torque once the motor is all happy in its new home.
> >
> > The above have worked well on several in/out jobs on my '51 GMC and I
>can't
> > think of any reason a Stovebolt would be any different.
> >
> > Jack / Winter park FL
> > On Mon, 12 Aug 2002 09:35:37 -0700 "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
>wrote:
> >
> > I will be pulling the old 235 and installing the new one shortly. I
>plan
>to
> > remove entire front end sheet metal and radiator core support. I have a
>4
> > speed in this, but with open driveline (no torque tube). Will I be able
>to
> > pull the entire drive train (engine/tranny) as a combo, or should I
>remove
>the
> > tranny first?
> >
> > I assume, whatever I do to remove, just reverse to install the new
>engine,
> > right?
> >
> > Finally, what is the best way to hook up to the engine to lift it
> > (with/without tranny attached)? I can use head bolts (one front, one
>rear) on
> > the old engine, but would prefer not to do that on the new one going in.
>If
> > possible, I'd like to have it completely put together for that
>process....is
> > this possible?
> >
> > Rob
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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