I decided I'm going to try it with just the radiator, radiator support and
front grille top cover removed...but not the grille bars themself (although
I did remove the top bar since it is separate. I'll let you know what
happens. Haven't decided if the hood will come off or not, but since I
pulled the tranny separately, maybe it can stay in place?
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Halton" <safesix@earthlink.net>
To: "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
Cc: <old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>; "_Oletrucks"
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pulling/Installing 235
> Rob,
>
> You can remove the sheet metal and core support if you like, but it's not
> totally necessary. With an engine hoist and leveler attachment, you can
> "finesse" the engine and trans out (or in) by tilting it and raising it is
> stages. I've done this just by removing the grill and radiator, even with
the
> hood and "doghouse" still in place. This with a Saginaw 4-speed attached,
but
> shifter removed - if your four speed doesn't protrude above the floor
level,
> you should be OK.
>
> As for attachment points, take a couple of old head bolts, or anything
with
> the same thread, and weld on some lifting hooks. You can use them on both
the
> old engine and then to put it back in. Then just put the correct ones in
and
> re-torque once the motor is all happy in its new home.
>
> The above have worked well on several in/out jobs on my '51 GMC and I
can't
> think of any reason a Stovebolt would be any different.
>
> Jack / Winter park FL
> On Mon, 12 Aug 2002 09:35:37 -0700 "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
wrote:
>
> I will be pulling the old 235 and installing the new one shortly. I plan
to
> remove entire front end sheet metal and radiator core support. I have a 4
> speed in this, but with open driveline (no torque tube). Will I be able
to
> pull the entire drive train (engine/tranny) as a combo, or should I remove
the
> tranny first?
>
> I assume, whatever I do to remove, just reverse to install the new engine,
> right?
>
> Finally, what is the best way to hook up to the engine to lift it
> (with/without tranny attached)? I can use head bolts (one front, one
rear) on
> the old engine, but would prefer not to do that on the new one going in.
If
> possible, I'd like to have it completely put together for that
process....is
> this possible?
>
> Rob
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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