We all are on a limited budget. I started my 55 first series rod project on
a limited budget and 4 years and about $18,000 later I am still on a limited
budget. Like some say, build it the way you want it but be prepared to go
over board and spen way more then you anticipated.
Dan Jacobsen - PA
'49 3100 327/powerglide
'55.1 3100 rodstoration 350/350 MII (in Progress)
'55.1 3600 Original
'51 6400 Deluxe Cab on '87 chassis
'35 Dodge Business Coupe - All original
>From: George Perez <g.perez@charter.net>
>Reply-To: George Perez <g.perez@charter.net>
>To: Gary Perry <glperry@fwi.com>
>CC: Leslie Novis <anovis@sympatico.ca>, ole trucks
><oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] first timer
>Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 06:44:42 -0500
>
>I could not have said it better. If you are going to street rod "limited
>budget "is not going to work. I have found this out first hand . I
>thought I could get parts from the junk yard et. and build a nice truck
>with a more hours of labor & elbow grease. Wrong answer!!! IT SOUNDS
>LIKE A GOOD PLAN though .Like Gary said figure out what you want then
>do it right. You will be much happy. This is supposed to be fun, don't
>stress yourself out.
>
>George
>55 1/2 ton TF
>
>Gary Perry wrote:
>
> >Have to make your own plan. There is no "limited budget" plan if you are
> >wanting a rod or restore. It ALL costs big bucks. In My opinion, Just
>put
> >in a front disc brake swap, keep the straight axle, with new king-pins
>and
> >spring bushings and shackles all around. It will steer fine then, and not
> >wander around on ya. Tighten up the adjustments for play in steering box.
> >Instructions are in the shop manual which you should have. Also get an
> >Assembly manual for pix of body and everything else as to where it goes
>and
> >how, etc. Go to www.stovebolt.com and explore, join for forums and use
>the
> >"links" section for places for parts, some on'line with catalogs. You can
> >use mono-leaf springs in front also, to soften ride and lower some, but
> >they are not cheap either. A dual master cylinder is nice, power or not,
> >newer rear-end from Nova or Camaro or later truck for better ratio and
>open
> >drive shaft. If you keep the six, may need diff trans to go to open line.
>I
> >like the truck 4spd myself.
> >If going V-8, use an auto for less hassle. They have mounts and kits for
> >them at most vendors. OR, if you are handy, you
> >can make yourself. You'll need a garage of tools, torch and saws for
>doing
> >that kinda stuff. If you just go stock, rebuild the brakes, clean-up
>things
> >and get basic stuff working, you will be driving much sooner than
>rodding
> >will take you. AND, if you get into it and have all apart and find you
>are
> >unable to afford what you wish to do, it can spoil your ambition and
>makes
> >it hard to resell truck all in pces if you give up. Just my .02 cents!
> >
> >G. L. Perry
> >Huntington, IN 46750
> >glperry@fwi.com
> >Big AD trucks, COE
> >MM tractors and 1 Oliver!
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Leslie Novis" <anovis@sympatico.ca>
> >To: "ole trucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 2:20 PM
> >Subject: [oletrucks] first timer
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>Just purchased my first 1950 chev p/u,and everybody has a different idea
> >>to upgrade the front suspension(camaro clip,mustang II if I could find
> >>one,aftermarket units etc.) I"m on a limited budjet ,but want to do it
> >>right the first time.Can somebody please help me out with a plan .
> >>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >>
> >>
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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