Wayne:
Responding to your message below about front leaf springs and wheel
bearings:
I first removed the smallest leaf (closest to the axle) and the third leaf
from the bottom. The ride height looked great, but after several days the
springs settled-in and I noticed I had only 1-2 inches of clearance between
the axle and the rubber bump stop attached to the bottom of the frame rail.
I could have just cut some off of the bump stop to increase the clearance,
but I also noticed a slight oversteer at speeds above 60-65 MPH. I had just
put on new front shocks and I knew the alignment was O.K., so I suspected I
may have softened the suspension to the point the handling was affected.
I decided to take everything apart and reinstall the shortest spring and 3rd
leaf, then removed the 2nd and fourth leafs. The height was not quite as
low but the handling was back to what I had before with all 6 leafs.
Depending on the mileage and use/abuse your truck has had, you may want to
consider having a professional check the alignment, kingpins for wear, and
condition of the front shocks before you start. You will be changing the
dynamics of your trucks suspension and dont want to create a situation
that makes it unsafe. Several list members have replaced the original
springs with a monoleaf (you may want to contact Wayne Osborne owner of this
site, I know he has monoleafs on his 56). Measure your current ride height
before you start so you can keep track of how much you lowered by removing
leafs. Also suggest you put something between the individual spring leafs
while you have them apart so you dont have to worry about them squeaking or
chafing later. I bought a roll of Poly Ride Liner from Chevy Duty (part
number 74-935). Bottom line is, you may have to experiment to get the
height and handling you need/want.
To replace my front wheel bearings from ball type to roller, I checked a
number of vendor catalogs and the local parts stores. I selected Chevy Duty
for the parts because Ive had good experiences with them, they were close
to being the least expensive and I was also ordering replacement parts to
rebuild all four wheels with new brakes. I ordered 2 # 73-031 inner and 2 #
73-061 outer bearings and 2 # 73-111 grease seals.
I removed the front drums, cleaned-out the grease and used a punch and
hammer to drive out the inner bearing and outer bearing race (there are
scallop-cuts in the drum bearing pockets allowing you to get a punch in and
walk the bearings out by hitting one side, then the other). To remove the
inner bearing race from the spindle I CAREFULLY heated the race with a
propane torch (clean everything good first our youll set the grease on fire
when heating it up). I had a friend help pry the race off the spindle with
two hook/pry bars while I kept heating it up. Behind the race there should
be a metal piece to keep any grease from getting to the brake shoes (if the
grease seal leaks) and brake dust from contaminating the bearing grease (I
think they are called grease/dust shields). Its hard to get the race off
without bending the edges slightly, but if youre careful you can reshape
them before you install the new bearing. I noticed the spindles were
beat-up (nicks and dings) from someone beating earlier bearings on/off. I
used some emerycloth or aluminium oxide sand paper to smooth these out so
the new bearings would go on without too much trouble.
Since I was also rebuilding the brakes, I had a local parts store turn all
four brake drums. To do the front, they needed the wheel bearings so they
went ahead and installed the new bearings in the drums/hubs for me. I put
the grease/dust shields back on the spindles then repacked the new bearings
using grease formulated for disk brakes (its a higher temperature grease
and is recommended for all new bearings). I then installed the new inner
bearing on the spindle, reinstalled the drum and new outer bearing, then
tightened the locknut, backed it off a quarter turn and installed the cotter
key. After I drove around for a few days I rechecked the tightness of the
locknut to make sure the bearings hadnt gotten loose (you dont have to do
this, but Id rather recheck the bearings than have them wear-out
prematurely because they are loose).
Im writing this from memory, and hope I havent left anything out. Dont
be afraid to post questions on this message list, there are many good and
experienced folks glad to give advice. Good luck with your front suspension
rebuild!!
Carl Ham
56 Chevy TF Stepside
Pontiac, IL
>From: "Wayne & Trish Deforest" <defour@telus.net>
>Reply-To: "Wayne & Trish Deforest" <defour@telus.net>
>To: <the_hams@hotmail.com>
>Subject: front springs
>Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 00:36:05 -0700
>
>Hello Carl I just finished reading your article on removing leafs from your
>spring pack my springs only have 5 leafs per spring any suggestions on
>which leafs i should remove to achieve the same results you did Thanks for
>any help Wayne.I am also working on a 56tf halfton
One more question Carl what is involved in upgrading you wheel bearing from
roller type to tapered type Thanks again Wayne Deforest.
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