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Re: [oletrucks] Re: TF front springs & wheel bearings

To: "Carl & Becky Ham" <the_hams@hotmail.com>, <defour@telus.net>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Re: TF front springs & wheel bearings
From: "Gary Perry" <glperry@fwi.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 11:16:51 -0500
Carl, the inner bearing has no race on spindle that I know of. Unless you
have disc brake set-up and have a spacer!!! AND, the bearing race goes in
back of hub, THEN the bearing, THEN the seal to kinda hold it all in. Your
way wouldn't have a seal on hub, a No-No for sure.
You still use the dust sheild on the spindle too.

G. L. Grumpy's
Old Iron Ranch
Huntington, IN 46750
AD trucks and MM tractors
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl & Becky Ham" <the_hams@hotmail.com>
To: <defour@telus.net>
Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 10:32 AM
Subject: [oletrucks] Re: TF front springs & wheel bearings


> Wayne:
> Responding to your message below about front leaf springs and wheel
> bearings:
>
> I first removed the smallest leaf (closest to the axle) and the third leaf
> from the bottom.  The ride height looked great, but after several days the
> springs settled-in and I noticed I had only 1-2 inches of clearance
between
> the axle and the rubber bump stop attached to the bottom of the frame
rail.
> I could have just cut some off of the bump stop to increase the clearance,
> but I also noticed a slight oversteer at speeds above 60-65 MPH.  I had
just
> put on new front shocks and I knew the alignment was O.K., so I suspected
I
> may have softened the suspension to the point the handling was affected.
> I decided to take everything apart and reinstall the shortest spring and
3rd
> leaf, then removed the 2nd and fourth leafs.  The height was not quite as
> low but the handling was back to what I had before with all 6 leafs.
>
> Depending on the mileage and use/abuse your truck has had, you may want to
> consider having a professional check the alignment, kingpins for wear, and
> condition of the front shocks before you start.  You will be changing the
> dynamics of your trucks suspension and dont want to create a situation
> that makes it unsafe.  Several list members have replaced the original
> springs with a monoleaf (you may want to contact Wayne Osborne owner of
this
> site, I know he has monoleafs on his 56).  Measure your current ride
height
> before you start so you can keep track of how much you lowered by removing
> leafs.  Also suggest you put something between the individual spring leafs
> while you have them apart so you dont have to worry about them squeaking
or
> chafing later.  I bought a roll of Poly Ride Liner from Chevy Duty (part
> number 74-935).  Bottom line is, you may have to experiment to get the
> height and handling you need/want.
>
> To replace my front wheel bearings from ball type to roller, I checked a
> number of vendor catalogs and the local parts stores.  I selected Chevy
Duty
> for the parts because Ive had good experiences with them, they were close
> to being the least expensive and I was also ordering replacement parts to
> rebuild all four wheels with new brakes.  I ordered 2 # 73-031 inner and 2
#
> 73-061 outer bearings and 2 # 73-111 grease seals.
>
> I removed the front drums, cleaned-out the grease and used a punch and
> hammer to drive out the inner bearing and outer bearing race (there are
> scallop-cuts in the drum bearing pockets allowing you to get a punch in
and
> walk the bearings out by hitting one side, then the other).  To remove
the
> inner bearing race from the spindle I CAREFULLY heated the race with a
> propane torch (clean everything good first our youll set the grease on
fire
> when heating it up).  I had a friend help pry the race off the spindle
with
> two hook/pry bars while I kept heating it up.  Behind the race there
should
> be a metal piece to keep any grease from getting to the brake shoes (if
the
> grease seal leaks) and brake dust from contaminating the bearing grease (I
> think they are called grease/dust shields).  Its hard to get the race off
> without bending the edges slightly, but if youre careful you can reshape
> them before you install the new bearing.  I noticed the spindles were
> beat-up (nicks and dings) from someone beating earlier bearings on/off.  I
> used some emerycloth or aluminium oxide sand paper to smooth these out so
> the new bearings would go on without too much trouble.
>
> Since I was also rebuilding the brakes, I had a local parts store turn all
> four brake drums.  To do the front, they needed the wheel bearings so they
> went ahead and installed the new bearings in the drums/hubs for me.  I put
> the grease/dust shields back on the spindles then repacked the new
bearings
> using grease formulated for disk brakes (its a higher temperature grease
> and is recommended for all new bearings).  I then installed the new inner
> bearing on the spindle, reinstalled the drum and new outer bearing, then
> tightened the locknut, backed it off a quarter turn and installed the
cotter
> key.  After I drove around for a few days I rechecked the tightness of the
> locknut to make sure the bearings hadnt gotten loose (you dont have to
do
> this, but Id rather recheck the bearings than have them wear-out
> prematurely because they are loose).
>
> Im writing this from memory, and hope I havent left anything out.  Dont
> be afraid to post questions on this message list, there are many good and
> experienced folks glad to give advice.  Good luck with your front
suspension
> rebuild!!
>
> Carl Ham
> 56 Chevy TF Stepside
> Pontiac, IL
>
>
>
> >From: "Wayne & Trish Deforest" <defour@telus.net>
> >Reply-To: "Wayne & Trish Deforest" <defour@telus.net>
> >To: <the_hams@hotmail.com>
> >Subject: front springs
> >Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 00:36:05 -0700
> >
> >Hello Carl I just finished reading your article on removing leafs from
your
> >spring  pack my springs only have 5 leafs per spring any suggestions on
> >which leafs i should remove to achieve the same results you did Thanks
for
> >any help Wayne.I am also working on a 56tf halfton
>
> One more question Carl what is involved in upgrading you wheel bearing
from
> roller type to tapered type Thanks again Wayne Deforest.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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