Seems kinda strange to put 2 hot wires together but it works fine. 1
wire is hot in the run position only and looses votlage in the start
position. The other wire has no voltage until cranking and goes away
when let off to the run position.
I had to jack up the transmission to tilt the engine forward to get the
distributor in. I still have a little bit of room left with timing
adjusted and everything bolted down.
K. M. Lehmann wrote:
>There should be a double wire going to the old coil, hook this to your bat
>on HEI. You may have to change the wire from the ign switch of you don't
>have an external resister to bypass, as the resistence was built in the ign
>wire on some models.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Claude" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
>Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 8:54 AM
>Subject: [oletrucks] ignition wire
>>I put an HEI distributor in the '59 with a 283. I took out an old wore
>>out points distributor. It's a close fit, but is in and not touching the
>>firewall. Where/how do I get a Batt. lead that is hot when cranking and
>>in the run position? I know I need to bypass the resistor but the old
>>wire seems to have batt. in the run position but not in the start.
>>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959