The '46 still uses the "Electroloc" ignition switch. It consists of a key
switch with an armored cable attached that goes to the top of the coil.
Inside the armored cable is the "Hot" wire for the coil. These coils are
mounted with the High Tension and Dist. posts on the bottom and the Bat.
post under the Electroloc cap. This was done to prevent a thief from
hotwiring the truck. In order to get to the Bat. post you need to remove
the coil and twist it off of the electroloc cap after you release the hidden
locking tab.
Most of the Hot wires I have seen in the Electroloc's are bare from years of
abuse right where they exit the armored cable. I have removed the soldered
wire end and slid a piece of "heat shrink tubing" in past the bad spot.
Only need to insert it in about 1" or so, the wire inside the armor should
be ok as it never gets moved or bent. After you make repair check it with
tester to make sure the outer armored cable and the Hot wire are "clear" of
each other.
If you try to remove the armored cable from the back of the key switch (to
repair/replace the hot wire) you may break the "pot metal" tabs that hold it
together rendering it "junk". If you don't need it "original" just use a
later model key switch.
Clear as mud....
Mike Boteler
'56 4400 Stake
'56 6400 Stake
'56 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
'56 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
'57 10500 Fire Truck
Hughesville, MD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Osborne" <wayne@chevytrucks.org>
To: <OlHic@aol.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] new wiring harness help
> On the 55-59 truck the ignition switch guts is removed by taking a
> straightened paper clip or equivalent, and inserting into the tiny hole
you
> see on the face of the switch. Push on it and turn the switch to the left
> and a little jiggling and the inside should pull out from the switch
> housing. The bezel will come off then and the switch is removed from
behind
> the dash. Unsure of the 46's but may be the same or somewhat similiar.
Look
> for that tiny hole........
> Regarding the wire removal, i only have reference to the tri 5, they have
> spade lugs on the back of the switch that wires just pull off of terminal.
> Does the starter have a electrical solenoid activated from the swithc on
it
> or does the 46's utilize a floor mechanical activated solenoid for
> starting? The additional wires may go from the switch to the solenoid to
> acivate the starter when you turn the switch to crank it...
> Of course normal disclaimer applies here--I may not know what the hell i'm
> talking about so please verify before doing. Extra care is always needed
> when working with power..
> So the vendor is offering no assistance what so ever? I thought chevies of
> the 40's had a better reputation. --wayne
>
>
> At 06:10 PM 11/4/03 EST, OlHic@aol.com wrote:
> >Just purchased and recieved a new wiring harness for my 46 chevy 3/4 ton
> from
> >chevys of the forties and since have discovered they have no tech help
when
> >needed. I have the harness mostly in, and have a couple of questions.1.I
> have a
> >sheilded wire with a metal cap coming out of my igniton switch, that i
> assume
> >ran to the coil. how do i remove this wire? is it built into the switch?
How
> >do i remove the ignition switch?, the manual tells nothing 2. the harness
> has
> >a smaller harness that has a heavier wire for the starter to ammeter, and
> >three other wires.does anyone know how these other wires attach?thanks
> >Phil
> >46 chevy 3/4
> >51 3804
> >51 3800
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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